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Antrim Glens - Discover Northern Ireland

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The Heart of the<br />

<strong>Antrim</strong> <strong>Glens</strong><br />

Visitors Guide<br />

SHANWAY, Belfast


<strong>Ireland</strong><br />

CORK<br />

DERRY<br />

Co. <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

BELFAST<br />

DUBLIN<br />

Driving Distance from Cushendall<br />

Belfast 52 miles 85 Km<br />

Ballycastle 15 miles 24 Km<br />

Ballymena 18 miles 30 Km<br />

Larne 26 miles 43 Km<br />

Giants Causeway 30 miles 48 Km<br />

Belfast Int. Airport 30 miles 48 Km<br />

Dublin 152 miles 249 Km<br />

The <strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

Giants Causeway<br />

DERRY<br />

BALLYMENA<br />

Cushendun<br />

Cushendall<br />

Glenariff<br />

PORT OF LARNE<br />

County <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

BELFAST INTERNATIONAL<br />

BELFAST<br />

BELFAST CITY<br />

Ferries<br />

between<br />

Scotland,<br />

England.<br />

DUBLIN AIRPORT<br />

DUBLIN<br />

Ferries<br />

between<br />

England,<br />

France, Spain


contents<br />

Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> 2<br />

The Nine <strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong> 3<br />

History of the area 4<br />

Landscape and Folklore 6-7<br />

Wildlife 8-9<br />

Glenariff 10<br />

Cushendall 15<br />

Cushendun 21<br />

Walks 28<br />

Area Map 30-31<br />

Scenic Drives 32<br />

Activities and Events 36-37<br />

Useful Contacts 38<br />

Church Services 39<br />

Further Information<br />

Acknowledgements 40


<strong>Ireland</strong><br />

CORK<br />

DERRY<br />

Co. <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

BELFAST<br />

DUBLIN<br />

Driving Distance from Cushendall<br />

Belfast 52 miles 85 Km<br />

Ballycastle 15 miles 24 Km<br />

Ballymena 18 miles 30 Km<br />

Larne 26 miles 43 Km<br />

Giants Causeway 30 miles 48 Km<br />

Belfast Int. Airport 30 miles 48 Km<br />

Dublin 152 miles 249 Km<br />

The <strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

Giants Causeway<br />

DERRY<br />

BALLYMENA<br />

Cushendun<br />

Cushendall<br />

Glenariff<br />

PORT OF LARNE<br />

County <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

BELFAST INTERNATIONAL<br />

BELFAST<br />

BELFAST CITY<br />

Ferries<br />

between<br />

Scotland,<br />

England.<br />

DUBLIN AIRPORT<br />

DUBLIN<br />

Ferries<br />

between<br />

England,<br />

France, Spain


Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong><br />

In an age of uncertainty and change it is refreshing to<br />

visit a place like the <strong>Antrim</strong> <strong>Glens</strong>, where the pace of<br />

life is leisurely; the people are welcoming, the air is<br />

fresh and the countryside is beautiful.<br />

This is a peaceful landscape - one to delight the<br />

walker, the cyclist, the fisherman, and the lover of<br />

nature. Time stands still among these green hills and<br />

valleys.<br />

The sea of Moyle laps on the rocky shore; the coast<br />

of Scotland a mere fourteen miles distant, can be<br />

plainly seen on a clear day. Hugging the shore, travelling<br />

over towering headlands, weaving under bridges and<br />

arches, winding past bays, sandy beaches and strange<br />

rock formations, the <strong>Antrim</strong> Coast Road skirts them<br />

all and drops in on the distinctive pastel-painted villages<br />

at their feet. The <strong>Antrim</strong> Coast Road has been ranked<br />

number five in the world and number one in Europe for<br />

its spectacular views.<br />

The surrounding hills and glens are a patchwork of hill<br />

farms, small fields hedgerows and traditional stone<br />

walls. Fast flowing streams and winding rivers run to<br />

meet the sea.<br />

The pace of life is what you make it in this unique and<br />

beautiful corner of <strong>Ireland</strong>.<br />

2 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


The Nine <strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

Glentaisie - Glen of Taisie of the bright sides<br />

<strong>Glens</strong>hesk - Sedgy glen<br />

Glendun - Glen of the brown river<br />

Glencorp - Glen of the slaughtered<br />

Glenaan - Glen of the colt’s foot<br />

Glenballyeamon - Glen of Eamon’s homestead<br />

Glenariff - Arable or fertile glen<br />

Glencloy - Glen of the hedges<br />

Glenarm - Glen of the army<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 3


Human settlement has existed here<br />

since neolithic times, and the<br />

mountain Tievebulliagh (just northwest<br />

of Cushendall) was important<br />

then as one of the few sources of the<br />

rock porcellanite. Arrow, spear and axe<br />

heads made of this were exported<br />

from the area through Europe to the<br />

fringes of Asia. After stone came<br />

bronze, and the focus shifted to<br />

Lurigethan, where a promontory fort<br />

enclosed 30 acres of the mountain<br />

overlooking Glenariff and Cushendall.<br />

In turn, it too was abandoned in favour<br />

of homesteads, which were walled for<br />

protection against raiders. A<br />

particularly fine example of one of<br />

these can be seen in the Altagore<br />

cashel just north of Cushendun. This<br />

early Christian enclosure must have<br />

seen its share of visitors, as Vikings<br />

roamed around the lands. And did the<br />

Saxons come as well? Coins of the<br />

King of Mercia were found in the<br />

construction of Waterfoot pier at the<br />

foot of Glenariff.<br />

At this time the area was part of the<br />

Celtic Kingdom of Dalriada,<br />

commemorated by street names in<br />

Cushendall. Its Chieftains crossed the<br />

narrow sea to set up Scottish Dalriada,<br />

and ever since then there have been<br />

close links between<br />

the two lands.<br />

history<br />

Millenium Cairn<br />

Glenariff from Lurigethan<br />

4 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


Fairy tree<br />

Layde Graveyard<br />

Red Bay Castle<br />

By the late thirteenth century,<br />

ownership of the <strong>Glens</strong> had passed to<br />

the Earl of Ulster, who sold it on to an<br />

exiled Norman family, the Bissetts.<br />

They built the first stone castle at Red<br />

Bay and ruled until 1399, when John<br />

Mor McDonnell, second son of Lord of<br />

the Isles, married the heiress Margery<br />

Bissett. For 200 years the McDonnells<br />

held the <strong>Glens</strong> by force of arms, most<br />

famously under the leadership of<br />

Sorley Boy (1505-89). Then came the<br />

turbulent years of the 17th century,<br />

when the estate was lost and<br />

regained. Finally, following the<br />

Williamite victory (1690), an area of<br />

8000 acres around Cushendall and<br />

Cushendun was forfeited and sold.<br />

Many McDonnells still rest here, at<br />

Layde Church on the heights above<br />

Red Bay.<br />

Cushendall was purchased by Francis<br />

Turnly in the early 19th century. He<br />

developed the village and improved<br />

the Coast Road between it and his<br />

home near Carnlough, so creating a<br />

local landmark, the Red Arch.<br />

A magnificent engineering feat in its<br />

day, this road has made many isolated<br />

communities accessible<br />

and opened the beauty of the<br />

land for all to see.<br />

The Red Arch<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 5


landscape<br />

The landscape of the glens is a<br />

combination of natural forces and<br />

generations of human activity. It has<br />

resulted in an unrivalled variety of<br />

landscapes for such a small region.<br />

This is officially recognised in the<br />

designation of the area as an Area Of<br />

Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).<br />

The actual shape and form of the<br />

land in the AONB is the culmination of<br />

many earth forming forces at work<br />

over a long period of time. Most<br />

important amongst these was the<br />

volcanic lava outpourings about 50-60<br />

million years ago which produced a<br />

massive hard basalt plateau overlying<br />

softer sedimentary rocks of chalk, clay<br />

and sandstone.<br />

The present shape and form of the<br />

glens and coast is the result of intense<br />

glacial erosion during the last<br />

glaciation which was drawing to a<br />

close only 17,000 years ago. Ice<br />

sculpted the landscape deepening preglacial<br />

valleys as at Glenariff and<br />

Glenballyeamon. Little of the<br />

landscape remains truly natural.<br />

People living and working the land<br />

have created their own landscapes of<br />

farm, field, hedgerow, wall and<br />

dwelling. All of these add to the<br />

heritage of the area.<br />

After the last Ice Age most of <strong>Ireland</strong><br />

was covered by oak, pine and birch<br />

woodland. The arrival of the first Stone<br />

Age farmers, around 3000 BC, led to<br />

the clearance of the forests.<br />

By the 1400s, only 12% of the island<br />

was forest and this was mainly in the<br />

lowland river valleys. Oak, ash and a<br />

few elm trees predominated, with oak<br />

and birch on higher ground.<br />

The open landscape without permanent<br />

field boundaries remained until the<br />

early 1800s. The increase in population<br />

led to the development of small<br />

villages or ‘clachans’, with farms, which<br />

were run on a partly collective system.<br />

These were inefficient and in the late<br />

18th and early 19th Centuries, they<br />

were reorganised and the land was<br />

redistributed. The resulting patchwork of<br />

small fields around the <strong>Antrim</strong> <strong>Glens</strong><br />

and Coast, contrasts with the open<br />

moorland above. In Glenariff, the<br />

distinctive pattern of ladder farms can<br />

be seen running upslope from the<br />

valley floor, each farm thus ensured a<br />

share of lowland, glen side and hill<br />

ground. The grazing of thousands of<br />

sheep has resulted in the grassy fields<br />

with occasional whins.<br />

Landlords, such as Turnly at Cushendall ,<br />

White at Cushendun and Dobbs at<br />

Glenariff planted woodlands and in the<br />

20th century large areas of conifers<br />

were planted by the government<br />

forestry department.<br />

Each glen and valley has its own<br />

particular personality and charm, a<br />

consequence of the unique combination<br />

of rocks, soils and exposure together<br />

with the history of its people.<br />

6 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


folklore<br />

The alternative history of the <strong>Glens</strong> is<br />

much more colourful and romantic. It is<br />

filled with stories of fairy folk, ancient<br />

heroes such as Ossian and Fionn<br />

McCumhaill and well known Celtic<br />

legends including the story of the<br />

Children of Lir.<br />

The Children of Lir<br />

Lir was a famous Irish Chieftain whose<br />

wife died after giving him a daughter<br />

and three sons. He then married his<br />

dead wife’s half-sister, who was jealous<br />

of Lir’s love for his four children. She<br />

cast a spell on them turning them into<br />

beautiful white swans, and they were<br />

destined to spend nine hundred years<br />

in exile. Three hundred of these years<br />

were passed here, on the Waters of<br />

Moyle, and the birds’ lonely cries were<br />

heard about the bay. Finally, on the<br />

coming of Christianity to <strong>Ireland</strong>, the<br />

Children of Lir regained human form.<br />

Old and weak, they were baptised and<br />

died together.<br />

Every autumn, flocks of wild swans<br />

fly in over this north coast on<br />

migration from Iceland to spend the<br />

winter in <strong>Ireland</strong>’s milder climate.<br />

Their haunting and musical calls are a<br />

reminder of one of <strong>Ireland</strong>’s favourite<br />

legends.<br />

Fairy Folk<br />

The fairies were believed to live in<br />

many small green hills, raths, found<br />

throughout the countryside but<br />

Tiveragh was a special abode.<br />

Sometimes they might appear as a<br />

cloud of moving lights or very sweet<br />

“fairy music” might be heard which<br />

had the power to lure people away.<br />

There were stories of people<br />

disappearing for a few days or weeks<br />

and on their return their personality<br />

had completely changed. A single<br />

thorn tree may still be seen in the<br />

middle of an otherwise cultivated field.<br />

This is a “Fairy Thorn” and even today<br />

you would be unlikely to find a<br />

<strong>Glens</strong>man foolhardy enough to<br />

interfere with it. There are stories of<br />

blood coming out if one is cut and<br />

peoples hair falling out or going white<br />

overnight if they have tried to remove<br />

one.<br />

It was a tradition to place a sprig of<br />

Rowan on a byre to protect a farm<br />

from mischievous fairies but there<br />

were also helpful ones. The Grogagh<br />

was a large, hairy, unkempt fairy which<br />

liked to help with farm tasks. However<br />

he was not too bright and could get<br />

things wrong such as gather in a few<br />

mountain hares with a flock of sheep!<br />

Another was the Banati (vanatee)<br />

which would tidy the home of<br />

someone who could not do this very<br />

well themselves. And most will have<br />

heard of the Banshee (from Gaelic for<br />

fairy woman) whose eerie wailing<br />

would foretell a death in certain<br />

families.<br />

Even in this age of high technology<br />

many of these ancient beliefs are in<br />

the background in the <strong>Glens</strong>.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 7


Wildlife<br />

The <strong>Glens</strong> provide many habitats<br />

– sea, shore, cliffs and slopes,<br />

woods and forests, farms, bog<br />

and moorland, rivers, streams<br />

and small lakes – that support<br />

interesting plants, insects, birds<br />

and mammals.<br />

Bluebells and Whins<br />

Yellow ‘whin’ bushes (gorse) break up<br />

the hawthorn hedges and primroses,<br />

bluebells and orchids provide colour in<br />

spring. As summer progresses these give<br />

way to red fuchsia, harebell, bird’s-foottrefoil<br />

and the rare wood vetch. Even in the<br />

depths of winter, there is a flower in bloom<br />

somewhere amongst these sheltered glens.<br />

The <strong>Antrim</strong> Plateau is a harsh and open<br />

landscape. Partly covered by blanket bog it<br />

is home to many rare plants such as the<br />

insect-eating butterwort. The more intimate<br />

landscape of the glens includes some fine<br />

native ash and hazel woodlands such as<br />

the National Nature Reserve at Glenariff.<br />

Over the open moorland and grasslands, a<br />

large hawk, the hen harrier, hunts its prey,<br />

and skylarks sing in the clear air. The<br />

russet Irish hare bounds across the heather,<br />

and agile Irish stoats negotiate stone walls<br />

hunting for mice and small birds. These<br />

two animals are slightly different to their<br />

counterparts in Britain, hence the Irish<br />

identity. The woods and forests are filled<br />

with songbirds, and fox and badger often<br />

make their homes here, from which they<br />

travel out into the open countryside to find<br />

food. Broad-winged buzzards, our largest<br />

bird of prey, drift over the farmlands,<br />

hunting for rabbits. The rivers are favoured<br />

by the shy otter, and by special river birds<br />

such as the bobbing, black-and-white<br />

dipper and the vivid blue and orange<br />

kingfisher.<br />

Salmon, brown trout and sea trout provide<br />

excitement for anglers in the glens rivers<br />

8 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong><br />

Wild Goat<br />

Greenfinch<br />

Redshank<br />

Oystercatcher<br />

Irish Hare


Foxglove<br />

Primrose and Orchid<br />

while seals occur around the coast<br />

but usually all you see is a dark head<br />

bobbing in the water.<br />

Buzzard<br />

Salmon<br />

The cliffs are populated with grey and<br />

white fulmars, which are not seagulls,<br />

but members of the petrel family, and<br />

expert gliders. You may hear the<br />

shrieking call of the Peregrine falcon<br />

echoing from the heights. Large black<br />

cormorants perch on sea rocks or the<br />

remains of old piers, wings sometimes<br />

spread to dry, for the bird is not<br />

naturally waterproof, and has to spread<br />

a body oil on its plumage to repel<br />

water.<br />

The heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> is one of the<br />

last refuges of the Red Squirrel in<br />

<strong>Ireland</strong> and great efforts are being<br />

made for their preservation. The<br />

surrounding hills and moorland have<br />

served as a barrier to the larger greys<br />

which carry a disease to which the<br />

reds are not resistant. Feeding boxes<br />

have been provided in woodlands and<br />

gardens so you could be lucky enough<br />

to spot one of these beautiful animals<br />

almost anywhere.<br />

Lapwing or Plover<br />

Otters<br />

Red Squirrel<br />

Skylark<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 9


10 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong><br />

glenariff


Glenariff<br />

A fine introduction to <strong>Ireland</strong> is the coast road from Belfast to the<br />

<strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong> and Glenariff, the Queen of the <strong>Glens</strong>. This is the<br />

largest and most beautiful of the Nine <strong>Glens</strong> and was scooped out<br />

by ice to form one of the finest examples of a glacial u-shaped<br />

valley.<br />

The glen is bounded by rugged precipices 200 metres to 400 metres<br />

in height, the most famous being Carneil and Lurigethan. The latter is<br />

a favourite of ramblers, rewarded by breathtaking views from its<br />

summit.<br />

In the Forest Park is a designated National Nature Reserve which<br />

contains impressive and evocatively named waterfalls. The diversity<br />

of topography, woodland and wildlife habitats formed here provide<br />

visitors with superb natural beauty, tranquillity and panoramic views<br />

of the Irish Sea and Scottish Coasts. These can be experienced by<br />

walking one of the three waymarked trails in the forest. The Park has<br />

an exhibition centre and a cafe for hungry travellers. At the bottom of<br />

the Glen lies the golden one mile curve of Waterfoot Beach, one of<br />

the best sandy beaches in the <strong>Glens</strong>. The beach offers car parking,<br />

picnic area and a children’s play park.<br />

Garron Plateau has the most extensive area of Blanket Bog in<br />

<strong>Northern</strong> <strong>Ireland</strong> and is a special conservation area. It is one of the<br />

most precious sites in the European Union.<br />

Remains of an old railway line, the White Arch and the old pier are<br />

signs that iron was once mined here years ago. About 100 yards left<br />

of the beach is the Red Arch and round the corner a 13th century<br />

castle sits on the hill above. This was once owned by Sir James<br />

McDonnell and burnt by his enemy Shane O’Neill in 1565.<br />

After a day of exploring the sights you can fish at the pier or watch a<br />

game of hurling (the national game). What better way to finish off<br />

the day than a hot whiskey or a pint of Guinness at the turf fire in a<br />

local pub and enjoy the local hospitality and “craic”.<br />

Glenariff exemplifies the joys that await the traveller in <strong>Northern</strong><br />

<strong>Ireland</strong>. It is a welcoming Glen that holds hundreds of delights for<br />

visitors enjoying its history and stunning scenery.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 11


sites of interest - Glenariff<br />

Altnagowna<br />

Altnagowna or the Grey Mare's Tail as it is<br />

better known is one of the tallest and most<br />

spectacular waterfalls in Glenariff.<br />

The elevated location of the waterfall<br />

provides the visitor with a magnificent and<br />

breathtaking view of the vale of Glenariff<br />

majestically sweeping down to the sea of<br />

Moyle.<br />

Caves<br />

On the Coast Road between<br />

Waterfoot and Red Bay Pier are<br />

caves which were formed by sea<br />

erosion in the red sandstone rock<br />

and were once used as dwellings.<br />

There are three main caves, one of<br />

which was called Nanny's Cave and<br />

was inhabited by a woman called<br />

Anne Murray.<br />

She supported herself by knitting, spinning and by selling a drop of poteen (illicit<br />

alcohol). Anne died in 1847 aged 100 and was buried in the ancient graveyard<br />

at Kilmore. Another of the caves was used as a smith's forge and a third was<br />

used as a school in the 18th century.<br />

One of the pupils included Dr James McDonnell co-founder of the Belfast Medical<br />

School - the forerunner of The Royal Victoria Hospital. Directly below Red Bay<br />

Castle is a cave which is reputed to have been an escape route from the castle.<br />

In 1849 workmen found two bronze axes, a stone axe and some silver coins in<br />

this cave.<br />

12 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


Church of St Patrick and St Brigid<br />

An earlier church close by dated from 1839<br />

and when it was accidentally destroyed by<br />

fire this replacement was completed in 1917.<br />

It is constructed of local sandstone to a simple<br />

though pleasant design. Notable in the<br />

interior is the mosaic in the sanctuary and in<br />

the apse, according to Frank Rogers, three of<br />

the most delightful windows to be found<br />

anywhere in the <strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong>. They are of<br />

St Patrick, the Risen Christ and St Brigid and<br />

are the work of the Dublin artist Michael<br />

Healy. There is also a striking rose window in<br />

the gallery. A replica of the Ardclinis Crozier is<br />

placed in the entrance.<br />

The White Arch<br />

This Arch (on the Coast Road) is almost all<br />

that remains of a railway bridge<br />

constructed in the 1870s after the<br />

discovery of Iron Ore in Parkmore by the<br />

Glenariff Iron Ore Co. This was the first<br />

narrow-guage railway line in <strong>Ireland</strong>.<br />

The line ran from the White Arch Harbour<br />

for five miles to the mines in Parkmore.<br />

The terrace of limestone houses nearby<br />

were also built by the company to house<br />

the miners and the now renovated<br />

Parochial Hall was the old engine shed.<br />

The White Arch was used by the Railway<br />

to cross the Coast Road to the Old Pier, the<br />

remains of which can still be seen.<br />

Ardclinis Church and Graveyard<br />

A small car-park about 2 miles from Waterfoot, on the coast<br />

road, is the entrance to Old Ardclinis Church ruins which have<br />

recently been conserved. It was valued in the Ecclesiastical<br />

taxation of 1306 but its early history is obscure. Locally it is<br />

associated with St Mac Nissi, the patron of the Dioceses of<br />

Down and Connor. The 800 year old Ardclinis Crozier<br />

remained at the church until mid 18th Century and is now in<br />

the National Museum in Dublin.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 13


White Lady<br />

At Garron Point on the<br />

Coast Road is the White<br />

Lady which is a natural<br />

limestone sculpture<br />

resembling a Victorian<br />

lady. It stands proudly<br />

guarding the entrance<br />

to Garron Tower.<br />

The Famine Stone<br />

The stone (near Garron Point) was<br />

erected in December 1848 by the<br />

Marchioness of Londonderry to<br />

commemorate the Great Famine of<br />

1846-47. A year which she described<br />

as "unparalleled in the annals of<br />

human suffering".<br />

Garron Tower<br />

This huge mock Rhineland castle, off the A2<br />

coast road, was completed in 1850 by<br />

Lady Londonderry, a descendant of the Earls<br />

of <strong>Antrim</strong>. She was extremely wealthy<br />

through her father, Sir Henry Vane of Co<br />

Durham but in addition had inherited 10,000<br />

acres of McDonnell land in the <strong>Glens</strong>. Here<br />

she decided to build a summer residence, in<br />

the process displacing 13 families. The<br />

building had about 6 reception rooms,<br />

including a ballroom, and 56 bed and<br />

dressing rooms. After her death it became a<br />

hotel and in 1951 became St MacNissi’s<br />

College, now St Killian’s. The grounds are<br />

private but it can be viewed from the<br />

entrance gates.<br />

14 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


cushendall<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 15


Cushendall<br />

Cushendall nestles in a dramatic landscape, at the bottom of Glenballyeamon<br />

and surrounded by mountains on one side and the Irish sea on the other. A<br />

challenging 9 hole Golf Course is right in the middle of the village<br />

complementing its character.<br />

Cushendall is commonly known as the ‘Capital of the <strong>Glens</strong>’ both for its central<br />

location and because it is the social, business and cultural heart of the glens. It<br />

is now a thriving village but one which has managed to maintain its distinctive<br />

character. This quality was officially recognised when the core of the village was<br />

declared as a conservation area in 1975 being only the second such area in<br />

<strong>Northern</strong> <strong>Ireland</strong> to be designated. Isolated from overland contact with the rest<br />

of <strong>Ireland</strong> by the <strong>Antrim</strong> Plateau, the area around Cushendall has nevertheless<br />

been a focus of human settlement for millennia. An important promontory fort<br />

of the Iron Age, Lurigethan, looks down upon the village, a steep and ancient<br />

zig-zag track leading to the summit ramparts still clearly visible in the landscape<br />

today. At an even earlier period, distinctive stone implements from neighbouring<br />

Tievebulliagh were traded far and wide throughout Britain and <strong>Ireland</strong>. At the<br />

end of the 14th century the <strong>Glens</strong> came into the possession of the McDonnell<br />

clan but after opposing the crown their goods were confiscated and part were<br />

sold to the Hollow Sword Blade Company in the 18th century. In turn they sold it<br />

to a Dr Richardson, who changed it name to “Newtown <strong>Glens</strong>”.<br />

There was very limited development during this period and it was only when<br />

Francis Turnly purchased the village that significant development occurred. In the<br />

Festival time<br />

16 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


early 1800’s Francis Turnly returned from China, where having made his fortune<br />

he bought the village. He started a major development programme which<br />

included building an inn, a bath house, a new mill, a village school and in 1817<br />

work began on the famous Curfew Tower in the centre of the village.<br />

Under Turnly’s ownership the village prospered and it was further opened up in<br />

the 1840s when the Coast Road linked it to Larne and Belfast. Before his death,<br />

Francis Turnly had ambitious plans to turn Cushendall into the headquarters of a<br />

United Nations Organisation – but sadly these plans came to nothing! One of his<br />

major improvements was to restore the name of the village to Cushendall and so<br />

it has remained ever since.<br />

In the later decades of the 19th century, the village continued to grow though<br />

not at the same pace as before. Tourism became an important industry and<br />

several hotels were built. In the 20th century Cushendall was the one of the first<br />

villages in <strong>Ireland</strong> (1923) to generate its own electricity. The village has<br />

continued to grow and especially in the last 25-30 years there has been a major<br />

increase in population from about 1,000 in 1971, to over 2500 at the present<br />

day.<br />

Cushendall has a variety of eating establishments and traditional pubs which<br />

provide a friendly welcome, good cuisine and a well deserved pint at the end of<br />

a busy day. There is also a tourist office which provides information and local<br />

knowledge on all aspects of the <strong>Glens</strong> area.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 17


sites of interest - Cushendall<br />

The Curfew Tower<br />

The Tower in the centre of Cushendall was built<br />

by Francis Turnly, the Landlord of the village, in<br />

1817, to confine riotous prisoners.<br />

The Curfew Tower is perhaps the best known<br />

Turnly landmark. Elaborate and eccentric<br />

instructions were laid down for its operation.<br />

Dan Mc Bride, an army pensioner was given the<br />

job of permanent garrison and was armed with<br />

one musket, a bayonet, a brace of pistols and a<br />

pike thirteen feet long. The projecting windows<br />

on each side of the Tower had openings for<br />

pouring molten lead on unsuspecting attackers<br />

below!<br />

The Curfew Tower is now owned by rock band the KLF, who recently opened it up<br />

to artists who have periods of residency in the building.<br />

Churches<br />

St Mary’s RC Church, at the western end of the village,<br />

was first built in 1834 and the present building dates<br />

from 1914. It is a solid impressive structure in Gothic<br />

Style with a tower surmounted by a spire. Inside the<br />

church there is a rich array of coloured glass, much of<br />

it the work of Mayer of Munich. There is a magnificent<br />

rose window above the gallery.<br />

Layde Parish Church (COI) is only separated from St<br />

Mary’s by the Parish Centre. It dates from 1832 and is<br />

built of red sandstone with 3 small but distinctive<br />

pinnacles on the gable facing the road. Its restoration<br />

with the assistance of all congregations in the village<br />

has preserved a most attractive feature. If open, the<br />

opportunity should be taken to view beautiful stained<br />

glass and memorials to the former landed gentry of<br />

the area. In the graveyard is the burial place of James<br />

Humbert Craig, the Irish landscape artist.<br />

18 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong><br />

Cushendall Presbyterian Church has been situated in Shore<br />

Road since 1900. Previously there was a meeting-house at<br />

Mullarts on the way to Cushendun. It is a simple but<br />

attractive building constructed of local sandstone with each<br />

gable surmounted by a cross. Like the parish church the<br />

small congregation here has been assisted in the past by<br />

all denominations when need arose.


Old Layde Church<br />

The ruins of this Church, one of the<br />

oldest and most important historical<br />

sites in the <strong>Glens</strong>, are situated on the<br />

Layde Road between Cushendall and<br />

Cushendun.<br />

Often referred to as a Franciscan<br />

Monastery evidence would indicate<br />

that it was in fact a parish church.<br />

The exact origins of the site are<br />

unknown but it probably began life as<br />

a holy place in the Iron Age or<br />

before.<br />

It was in ruins in 1622 but was<br />

rebuilt about 1696 and remained the<br />

site of Protestant worship until the<br />

1800s.<br />

Tieveragh<br />

Tieveragh in geological terms is the remains of a volcanic plug but it is known<br />

throughout North <strong>Antrim</strong> as ‘the fairy hill.’ It is said that the hill is inhabited by<br />

both good and bad fairies who live inside the hill. If you drive past Tieveragh,<br />

you will notice a ‘fairy tree’, a single thorn bush, halfway up the slope. No one<br />

would dare think about cutting it down for fear of something bad happening to<br />

them!<br />

According to local folklore, the fairies,<br />

or ‘wee folk’, from time to time, make<br />

an appearance around the hill and tree.<br />

It is also said that the bad fairies have<br />

been known to lure the unsuspecting<br />

visitor into the hill by playing<br />

enchanting music. Is it true? Well, it<br />

has not, as yet, been proven untrue!<br />

The Cottage Wood<br />

This newly developed woodland park is a<br />

haven of peace in the centre of the village.<br />

There is a series of interesting walks and<br />

viewpoints through this 10 acre site. There<br />

is also a play area and picnic facilities. The<br />

main entrance and Car parking facilities are<br />

provided at the top of High Street. The<br />

stable block has been developed to<br />

provide community facilities.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 19


Millennium Cairn<br />

The Millennium Cairn on Limerick<br />

point was built to mark the<br />

millennium in Cushendall. A time<br />

capsule was encased in it with<br />

memorabilia of the last century. A<br />

beacon was lit on millennium<br />

night to show the last light of<br />

1999.<br />

Red Bay Castle<br />

The ruins of Red Bay Castle are located close to Red Bay Pier on the main Coast<br />

Road between Waterfoot and Cushendall (on private land above the Red Arch).<br />

The history of the site dates back 750 years when John and Walter Bisset,<br />

banished from Scotland in 1224 for the murder of their uncle, purchased the<br />

<strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong> from Richard De Burgo and are said to have built the castle on<br />

the site. The existing castle is believed to have been built by Sir James<br />

McDonnell around 1561. It was the scene of various struggles and battles in the<br />

late 16th Century and was abandoned about 1600.<br />

20 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong><br />

Ossian's Grave<br />

Just off the main<br />

Cushendall/Ballymoney Road this<br />

megalithic court cairn is on a<br />

hillside in Lubitavish near Glenaan<br />

River.<br />

Dating from the stone age,<br />

(c.3800 BC) it is reputed to be the<br />

burial place of Ossian, the Celtic<br />

warrior - poet. A stone cairn was<br />

erected here in 1989 in memory<br />

of John Hewitt, the poet of the<br />

<strong>Glens</strong>.<br />

(Please note that there is only<br />

pedestrian access, and no toilet<br />

facilities and surrounding land is<br />

private.)


cushendun<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 21


Cushendun<br />

Cushendun, the name means the foot of the brown river, is the nearest port in<br />

<strong>Ireland</strong> to Britain. Because of its sheltered location and its safe anchorage,<br />

Cushendun became a convenient landing and embarkation point for traffic to<br />

Scotland.<br />

A ferry service between Cushendun and Dunaverty ran regularly until the middle<br />

of the 19th century. In earlier times the McDonnells and their clansmen<br />

frequently landed their galleys on Cushendun Beach.<br />

The present village grew up around the ferry terminus. A coastguard station,<br />

which remained until the 1920’s, was built, as was a store for the handling of<br />

merchandise. These buildings and the houses were located on the North side of<br />

the river, as there was no bridge connecting the South side until about 1860.<br />

In the early years of the last century, several reports suggested that a more<br />

permanent harbour should be constructed, and by 1830, Nicholas Crommelin, an<br />

entrepreneur of Hugenot descent had plans drawn up by the eminent engineer,<br />

Sir John Rennie, for an elaborate harbour and breakwater. Unfortunately,<br />

Crommelin had amassed large debts on other enterprises, and the Board of<br />

Works refused to advance the necessary finance for the project.<br />

After 1800, sea bathing became a fashionable recreation among the gentry of<br />

the time, and from this period the building of the large houses at Glenmona,<br />

Rockport and Glendun Lodge can be dated. Cushendun remains a popular seaside<br />

resort and earlier this century, three hotels were built to cater for the growing<br />

number of visitors. At this time too, ownership of the village passed from the<br />

White family of Broughshane, to Ronald McNeill, later Lord Cushendun. He<br />

employed a young Welsh architect Clough Williams-Ellis, to re-design the village.<br />

Two groups of houses, The square and Maud Cottages, were built.<br />

Cushendun Bay<br />

22 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


The village shop followed in 1932 but unfortunately plans for a village hall came<br />

to naught. These improvements and later efforts by the National Trust, which<br />

acquired Cushendun and the surrounding lands in 1954, from Lord Cushendun’s<br />

daughter, greatly enhanced the village and ensured its popularity as a holiday<br />

resort remained high.<br />

The village attracted many famous artists and writers. Humbert Craig, Maurice<br />

Wilks, Theo Gracey & Charles McAuley all had associations with the villages. John<br />

Masefield, former poet laureate, spent his honeymoon in the village, after his<br />

marriage to a Cushendun Crommelin. Moira O’Neill lived in nearby Rockport as<br />

did Louis McNeice. Writer Enid Starkie, spent holidays in Cushendun House.<br />

Today, the people of the district rely mainly on farming and tourism to provide<br />

employment. The only factory, a scutch mill and a ropeworks, lasted for a few<br />

years in the middle of the 19th century. The site is now occupied by the<br />

Cushendun Hotel.<br />

sites of interest - Cushendun<br />

Johann The Goat<br />

Johann was sculped by<br />

Deborah Brown, and<br />

presented by her to the<br />

people of Cushendun.<br />

The goat was the last<br />

animal to be culled in the<br />

foot and mouth<br />

outbreak of 2001 and is<br />

a poignant memorial<br />

for all the people who lost<br />

their livestock<br />

as a result of the<br />

outbreak.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 23


Glendun Viaduct<br />

This fine bridge carries William Bald's<br />

famous Coast Road towards<br />

Ballycastle across the valley of<br />

Glendun. One of the three arches<br />

spans the river Dun and another the<br />

Glendun Road. The bridge,<br />

completed in 1839 was the work of<br />

county surveyor Charles Lanyon, who<br />

was only 22 years old when he<br />

designed the viaduct. Lanyon later<br />

became famous as the architect of<br />

many fine buildings including<br />

Queens University in Belfast.<br />

The Mass Rock<br />

Located on the Glendun Road past Craigagh<br />

Church (Cushendun) where the wood starts<br />

on the right, is a gateway leading to an old<br />

altar.<br />

This is where Mass was celebrated in olden<br />

times before a church was built in the area<br />

and even now once a year a procession is<br />

made from the present church to the old<br />

altar where Mass is celebrated. The origin<br />

of the main stone is not known - some say<br />

it is a Runic stone, others say that it is a<br />

stone borrowed from one of the "Holy"<br />

Scottish Isles, Iona or even Staffa.<br />

The Gloonan Stone<br />

This stone is situated on the opposite side of<br />

the road from Craigagh Church on the left of<br />

the entrance to a farmyard. Gloonan comes<br />

from the Irish word for knee (gluin).<br />

On the stone is a depression which is said<br />

to have been made by St Patrick when he<br />

knelt to pray. A larger hole in the stone is<br />

known as St Patrick's Well. The water in it<br />

is believed to cure warts. A more logical<br />

explanation is that the hole in the stone<br />

was used for grinding oats.<br />

(Please note surrounding land private.)<br />

24 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


St Patrick’s Church, Craigagh<br />

The Catholic church is on a very old site with<br />

headstones in the graveyard dating from the late<br />

1700’s. The present church originated in 1804 but<br />

has had much alteration since then. Most recently<br />

it was totally refurbished in 2010, hence the<br />

pristine appearance inside and out. The stained<br />

glass in the sanctuary is attributed to Mayer of<br />

Munich and depicts the “Sacred Heart”, with St<br />

Patrick on one side and St John on the other. Also<br />

of interest are the mosaic Stations of the Cross with<br />

the inscriptions in Gaelic.<br />

The Fuldiew Stone<br />

In Craigagh graveyard, 15m from the western gable of the church, lies a peculiar<br />

gravestone known as the Fuldiew Stone.<br />

The stone is a memorial to the McAlister<br />

family and commemorates the death of<br />

John McAlister, who died at the age of<br />

18 years. Apparently John died at sea<br />

and his body was brought ashore at<br />

Cushendun, for burial in Craigagh<br />

churchyard.<br />

A few days after his burial, his bride-tobe<br />

was found dead on his grave. She<br />

had carved the following inscription on<br />

the stone; "Your ship love is moored<br />

head and stern, for a fuldiew". Fuldiew<br />

is the payment that was due to a sailor<br />

after a voyage.<br />

Castle Carra<br />

Standing to the north of Cushendun strand, the<br />

remains of Castle Carra are almost completely<br />

covered in ivy. It is most famously the site of the<br />

death of Shane ‘The Proud’ O’Neill, Gaelic Prince of<br />

Ulster, at the hands of the McDonnell clan in 1567.<br />

Following his defeat of the McDonnells in 1565 he<br />

had now come to Cushendun to ask for their support<br />

against the English but, following a feast, a quarrel<br />

developed which led to his death. On the hill above stands a cairn or mound of<br />

stones erected to his memory.<br />

In 1585 Donnell Gorm McDonnell was beseiged by the English in the tower until<br />

his father Sorley Boy, at the age of eighty, landed in the bay from Scotland and<br />

drove off the beseigers. To quote Randall McDonnell of Cushendun “This was the<br />

style and substance of 16 th century international politics and war”.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 25


Glenmona Lodge<br />

Ronald McNeill employed Clough man<br />

Williams Ellis of Portmeirion fame, to<br />

design Glenmona as a replacement<br />

for Cushendun House. Its imposing,<br />

mock-georgian style would have been<br />

meant to reflect the status of McNeill<br />

as Lord Cushendun and a privy<br />

councillor. It is now owned by the<br />

National Trust.<br />

The Square and Maud Cottages<br />

Clough Williams Ellis designed the Square in<br />

the village centre in 1912. It was built in<br />

Cornish style to please Lord Cushendun’s wife<br />

Maud who was Cornish. Three terraces,<br />

linked at the corners by arches surround a<br />

courtyard which is entered from the street by<br />

imposing gate pillars. In 1925 Ellis was<br />

retained to design Maud Cottages following<br />

her death. These also follow a Cornish style<br />

especially in the design of the slated roofs.<br />

Murlough Bay<br />

Murlough Bay is known for its outstanding beauty and remote location. It is a<br />

wonderful place for solitude and nature where you may see Buzzards, Peregrine,<br />

Falcons, Eider and Fulmars. The ruins of the old Chapel of Drumnakill, nearby, is<br />

the burial place of a Saint. Coal and limestone were also extracted from here in<br />

the 1800’s. Evidence is to be seen today.<br />

26 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


Altagore Cashel<br />

The stone cashel or ring-fort, on private<br />

ground, is situated to the left of Torr Road<br />

about 1.5km from its junction outside<br />

Cushendun and is visible from the road. It<br />

is a circular fortified farmstead from about<br />

1500 years ago. Inland these farmsteads<br />

were usually earthen mounds called raths<br />

but in areas, such as Torr, rock was the<br />

available construction material. Much<br />

larger versions such as Grianan of Aileach<br />

between Derry and Letterkenny were the<br />

residences of major clan chiefs.<br />

Loughareema<br />

Above Cushendun the raised highway of the A2 passes through Loughareema,<br />

the vanishing lake. One day a sparkling lake, a few days later a bed of cracked<br />

mud and not a drop of water in sight, this is indeed a mysterious place.<br />

Loughareema lies in an area riddled with sink-holes, and it empties rapidly<br />

through these to underground watercourses, and can fill again quickly as<br />

rainwater drains off the surrounding bogs. The old road ran across the dry bed of<br />

the lake, and one dark night long ago, a Colonel McNeill, his coachman and<br />

horses drowned when the driver misjudged the state of the water level. It is<br />

said that their ghosts still haunt the lake.<br />

(On private land).<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 27


Walks in Glenariff<br />

L o c a l Wa l k s<br />

Glenariff Forest Park<br />

There are 3 walking trails in the park<br />

which are signposted from the main<br />

carpark.<br />

Viewpoint Trail (0.6miles/1km): From<br />

the viewpoint on the trail you can look<br />

down the Glen to the sea in the<br />

distance. The walk then takes you past<br />

the café and and back to the car park<br />

via the ornamental gardens.<br />

Waterfall Walks Trail (2 miles/3km):<br />

This path features the waterfalls and<br />

National Nature Reserve. There are<br />

stairways, pathways cut into the near<br />

vertical sides of the gorge, and<br />

boardwalks on stilts in the river. It is a<br />

spectacular walk.<br />

Scenic Trail (6 miles/9km): The trail<br />

takes you down the Inver River gorge,<br />

nearly to the Ess-na-Crub Waterfall. Once<br />

you cross the river, you begin a long<br />

and winding climb from about 60<br />

metres elevation to 260 metres, over<br />

about 1.1km. Once you have done this<br />

climb there are very fine views over the<br />

Glen and across the sea as far as the<br />

Mull of Kintyre.<br />

The Riverside Walk (4 miles/6.5km)<br />

This level walk starts in Carn-Neill<br />

housing estate in Waterfoot Village and<br />

provides views of the hills to both sides<br />

of the Glen and the opportunity to see<br />

the river wildlife. Follow signposts for<br />

Moyle Way to a small lay-by for parking<br />

beside the gate which leads to the path.<br />

The walk takes you on a grassy path<br />

beside the Glenariff river. At first the<br />

course of the river is natural and after<br />

you pass a footbridge it is as straight as<br />

a canal. Over 100 years ago the river<br />

was straightened to reduce flooding of<br />

the valley floor. After about 2km the<br />

path bends left away from the river<br />

along a lane beside a stream until it<br />

meets the Glen Road. Here you turn left<br />

and return to the coast via the rural<br />

Glen Road. You then have the choice of<br />

returning to the village along the<br />

beach or the footpath by the Coast<br />

road. The walk can be very much<br />

shortened by turning left along the<br />

lane (loanin) at the footbridge<br />

mentioned above. This also leads to<br />

Glen Road<br />

The Moyle Way mentioned above is a<br />

26 mile/40km walk on hill, mountain,<br />

forest tracks and road from Waterfoot<br />

to Ballycastle.<br />

Walks in Cushendall<br />

Both walks start and finish at the<br />

beach car park in Shore Street<br />

Beach and Village (1.5 miles/2.5km):<br />

Leave the car park towards the beach<br />

and continue on the path which runs at<br />

the edge of the grass area above the<br />

beach. The grassy area is known as<br />

Legge Green. Cross the River Dall by<br />

the footbridge and bear left to walk<br />

around Limerick Point. Pass some<br />

houses and a small boat-slip and bear<br />

left on the road along the shoreline.<br />

Enter the caravan site and walk on<br />

through. On passing the last caravan,<br />

bear left to enter Waterford car-park.<br />

There is often some boat related<br />

activity here. Walk uphill to the main<br />

road and turn right towards Cushendall.<br />

Soon you will see the sports ground of<br />

the local hurling club on the left and<br />

there may be a game or practice<br />

taking place. Continue on through the<br />

village and turn right into Shore Street<br />

at The Curfew Tower (p18) to return to<br />

the car park.<br />

Coastal path and Cairns Village<br />

(3miles/4.5km): Leave the car-park by<br />

going up the stony lane and passing<br />

several houses. Go right, through a<br />

gateway where the path forks, keeping<br />

to the coast. On this coastal hillside<br />

you will have stunning views across<br />

Red Bay and towards the Scottish<br />

28 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong><br />

Follow the c


coast. The path leads to Old Layd<br />

Church (p 19) which is well worth a<br />

visit. On leaving the church, walk out to<br />

the road through the car-park, turn<br />

right and take the next road on left ,<br />

Glenville Road, which goes uphill past a<br />

caravan park. Continue until you reach<br />

a road going downhill to the left, Cairns<br />

Road, which leads to the village of<br />

Cairns. You will see on the right, the<br />

hill of Tieveragh (p19), home of the<br />

fairies. Turn left at Cairns for Cushendall.<br />

Alternatively you can continue on<br />

Glenville Road past Cairns Road and<br />

turn left at the T-junction with<br />

Ballybrack Road which also leads to<br />

Cairns. On this route you will have<br />

some of the best views in the <strong>Glens</strong><br />

and 1.3 miles/2km will be added to<br />

your walk. On the outskirts of<br />

Cushendall turn left into Cottage Wood<br />

and use its woodland paths to reach<br />

Shore Street and your starting point.<br />

Walks in Glendun<br />

Both walks start from the beach car-park<br />

opposite Mary McBrides pub.<br />

Cushendun Village (1.5miles/2.5km)<br />

Leave the car-park towards the village<br />

and cross into Riverside Crescent<br />

(beside McBrides Pub). Take the<br />

riverside path immediately on your left<br />

and follow it along the river into<br />

Riverside Crescent again. Turn left and<br />

straight ahead take the path along<br />

Church Lane. Cross a lane and continue<br />

straight on. You will see the Church of<br />

<strong>Ireland</strong> on your right through the trees<br />

and soon you will pass a caravan park<br />

and emerge on to Glendun Road. Turn<br />

right, continue past the entrance to the<br />

caravan park and go into Torr Road. In<br />

about 300 yards/metres turn right<br />

towards the shore keeping the ruin of<br />

Carra Castle (p25) to your left. As you<br />

reach the shore, Rockport Lodge<br />

(private) is to your left. This was the<br />

former residence of poets such as John<br />

ountry code<br />

Masefield, Louis McNeice and Moira<br />

O’Neill. Turn right at the shore and<br />

follow the path passing Cushendun<br />

Emmets Hurling Pitch on your right.<br />

The path continues on the grass above<br />

the beach, past Maud Cottages (p26)<br />

on your right to reach your starting<br />

point.<br />

Glendun Walk: (4miles/6.5km)<br />

This walk on quiet country roads passes<br />

many interesting sites.<br />

Leave the car-park and turn left on<br />

Main St and cross the bridge. Go right<br />

towards Cushendall where there is a<br />

footpath beside the road as far as<br />

Knocknacarry village. At some points<br />

on this walk you will notice black<br />

basalt stones with names engraved.<br />

These mark Townland boundaries.<br />

Townlands are very ancient land<br />

divisions which are unique to <strong>Ireland</strong>.<br />

Continue through the village, walking<br />

on the right until you reach Clady Road<br />

on the right. On this road you pass a<br />

little group of houses. This is known as<br />

a clachan which was a traditional<br />

dwelling system in the past. You will<br />

cross a bridge over the River Dun and<br />

reach a crossroads where you turn right<br />

along Craigagh Wood which was<br />

planted around 1840. To the left as you<br />

leave the wood is the Mass Rock where<br />

Mass was celebrated before the Church<br />

was built. An annual procession takes<br />

place here on the last Sunday in June.<br />

St Patrick’s Church (p25) is well worth a<br />

visit and in the graveyard you will find<br />

the Fuldiew Stone (p25). Your walk<br />

continues passing Knocknacarry Avenue<br />

and Cushleake Road. Past the caravan<br />

site, turn right on a path which runs<br />

beside Bay Road to a large car-park.<br />

From here can be viewed the front of<br />

Glenmona Lodge (p26). Cross the road<br />

and walk on the grass to enter<br />

Cushendun and view the architecture of<br />

the village (p22/p26) as you return to<br />

the start of your walk.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 29


Tie<br />

Ballypatrick<br />

Forest<br />

Loughareema<br />

Crockaneel<br />

403m<br />

Glenaan River<br />

Ossian’s Grave<br />

l yemon River<br />

Ba<br />

l<br />

Tievebulliagh<br />

402m<br />

Lurigethan<br />

385m<br />

Trostan<br />

550m<br />

Slievenanee<br />

543m<br />

Glenariffe River<br />

30 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


Key:<br />

Walking<br />

Golf<br />

Church<br />

Site of Interest<br />

Picnic site<br />

Parking<br />

Toilets<br />

Information<br />

Caravan park<br />

veragh<br />

River<br />

Beach<br />

Forest<br />

Church<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 31


Scenic<br />

Drives<br />

The <strong>Antrim</strong> Coast Road<br />

Drive 1: <strong>Antrim</strong> Coast Road (13miles/21km)<br />

This drive offers stunning views of dramatic headlands and cliffs,<br />

beautiful bays and views to the Scottish coast.<br />

Start at Waterfoot Village and leave in the direction of Carnlough. To the right is<br />

the perfect U-shaped valley of Glenariff, Queen of the <strong>Glens</strong>, carved out by ice<br />

10,000 years ago and in front is the escarpment of the Garron Plateau, a huge<br />

protected area of blanket bog only accessible on foot. The church of St Patrick<br />

and St Brigid (p13) is always open. Now pass between the white limestone walls<br />

of the White Arch (p13). The next headland is known as the Dog’s Nose due to<br />

the black rock on the right. You will soon see the car-park for Old Ardclinis<br />

Church (p13) on the right. Further on, in a secluded valley above the road, lies<br />

the hidden and deserted village of Galbolly, once the haunt of highwaymen.<br />

The White Lady (p14), a natural sculpture, comes into view on the right and a<br />

little later, on a corner, the Famine Stone (p14). The cliffs at the headland of<br />

Garron Point give you an idea of the problems encountered by William Bald and<br />

the “men of the Glynnes” in constructing the <strong>Antrim</strong> Coast Road in the 1830’s.<br />

Just past the blackstone Coastguard Cottages is a scenic picnic area. In under a<br />

mile turn right, signposted St Killian’s College, to make the return journey. As the<br />

road rises the land on the left was the Turnly Estate. Francis Turnly also owned<br />

Cushendall and improved the road to it. Soon you will see across the fields to the<br />

right, the battlements of Garron Tower (14).<br />

Just past the entrance is a huge Australian Eucalyptus tree, planted in 1857, the<br />

oldest in <strong>Ireland</strong>. Continue to join the Coast Road turning left at the junction. On<br />

the left the signage for Moyle Council Area has the background of the swans<br />

from the story of the Children of Lir and also has the information that Moyle is<br />

twinned with towns in France and USA. As you drive on towards Waterfoot revel<br />

in the views across Red Bay and from a layby near the White Arch you can see<br />

the ladder farms of Glenariff on the hillside and the ruins of Red Bay castle (p20)<br />

above the pier. When you return to Waterfoot you might like to stretch you legs<br />

on the beach, accessible from the car-park behind the village.<br />

32 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


Tievebulliagh Mountain<br />

Drive 2: Glenballyeamon – Glenariff (15miles/24km)<br />

Starting from Cushendall, on this drive you will be able to experience the<br />

beauty of 2 scenic <strong>Antrim</strong> glens.<br />

Leave Cushendall by the B14 sign-posted Glenballyeamon. On the left is the<br />

massive headland of Lurigethan, on top of which there was a promontory fort in<br />

the Iron Age. Each August during festival Week there is a race from the village<br />

centre to the top of Lurig and back. The present record time is 26 mins. Soon you<br />

pass through the pretty village of Tully and begin to climb towards the <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

Hills passing through areas with Irish names such as Knockans and Altmore. You<br />

may notice the bed of the old narrow gauge railway to the left of the road. Its<br />

last station was here, at a spot known as Retreat. The gradient was too steep to<br />

carry iron ore to Waterfoot pier which was the intention. Passing Gault’s Road the<br />

rounded peak of Trostan can be seen to the right. This is the highest mountain in<br />

Co <strong>Antrim</strong> at 550m. The next sharp bend in the trees of Parkmore Forest is the<br />

Midgy Corner. The damp ground and vegetation here suits these minute biting<br />

insects which attack in hordes in the evening! Just before the A43, Old Parkmore<br />

Station is hidden in bushes on private ground to the right. Turn sharp left at the<br />

junction with the A43.<br />

You are now entering Glenariff, known as the Queen of the <strong>Glens</strong>, where you will<br />

have stunning views of the U-shaped valley and across to the Mull of Kintyre in<br />

Scotland if the weather is kind. Please park carefully if you want to absorb the<br />

view or take photos. There are good view points in Glenariff Forest Park and safe<br />

parking at the junction with Glen Road.<br />

From here a short walk along the road will permit you to observe the highest<br />

waterfall in the Glen, the Grey Mare’s Tail. Please make sure that you do so in a<br />

safe manner. Glen Road leads to the lower entrance to the Forest Park where<br />

more waterfalls can be visited. Continuing on the A43 you will reach the A2,<br />

Coast Road, and continue towards Cushendall passing the Caves (p12), Red Bay<br />

Castle ruins (p20) and Red Bay Pier. The boat slip at Waterford or Bellisk is often<br />

a hive of activity and Cushendall lies a short distance ahead.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 33


Scenic<br />

Drives<br />

Craigagh Wood<br />

Drive 3: Glenaan – Glendun (13 miles/21km)<br />

Each Glen is different and in Glenaan and Glendun you can experience a<br />

wilder atmosphere as you visit the high moorlands.<br />

Enter Glenaan about a mile from Cushendall in the direction of Ballycastle. The<br />

road, to the left, is signposted Scenic Route and towards Ballymoney. This Glen<br />

used to be heavily populated but following the great famine of the 1840’s many<br />

families emigrated and ruins of small cottages can be seen. After Glenaan School<br />

a lane to the left leads to Ossian’s Grave (P20), pedestrian access only. The rocky<br />

Glenaan River runs down the valley and to the left can be seen the distinctive<br />

peak of Tievebulliagh (p16). Fuschia grows wild in the hedges and thorny whins<br />

(gorse) with their yellow blossoms are common. Many signs of sheep farming<br />

will be noticed and sheep on the roadsides are very used to traffic. As the road<br />

levels off you are entering the turf cutting and harvesting area and may see it<br />

taking place in spring and early summer.<br />

Turn right into Glendun at Orra Bridge. At first, the narrow road winds between<br />

the hills beside the Glendun River and after a couple of miles the valley opens<br />

out somewhat and the fields provide better grazing. There are a few places<br />

where it is safe to park and absorb the tranquility of this Glen. At the bottom of<br />

the valley the road passes under the Glendun Viaduct (p24) where it is worth<br />

stopping to appreciate the construction skills of the builders in the 1830’s.<br />

Continue past Craigagh Wood which is lovely at any time but especially in<br />

Autumn. At St Patrick’s Church there is room to park and visit the recently<br />

renovated Church, the Fulldiew Stone (p25) and Craigagh Mass-rock (p24). After<br />

about a mile pass a caravan site and turn right, towards Cushendun village. To<br />

the right behind a large car-park is Glenmona Lodge (P26) and then you enter<br />

the National Trust owned village of Cushendun (P22/26).<br />

If you are leaving Cushendun you can take the main road to Cushendall or turn<br />

left in Knocknacarry village for views over the Sea of Moyle and to visit Layd<br />

Church Ruins (p19) before entering Cushendall on Shore Street. (4miles/6.5km)<br />

34 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


A view of Scotland from Torr head<br />

Loughareema - The ‘Vanishing Lake’<br />

Drive 4: Torr and Vanishing Lake. (23miles/35km)<br />

This is one of the most dramatic drives in <strong>Ireland</strong> and the Torr coastal route<br />

contrasts with the return journey over the hills on the inland A2.<br />

Leave Cushendun on Bay Road and turn right into Torr Road. The road is narrow<br />

and twisting with steep hills but the surface is always good. Select a low gear on<br />

hills and all will be well! Soon you will see the ruins of Carra Castle (p25) on<br />

the right. After a mile, as you ascend a steep hill towards a sharp right-hand<br />

bend the ruins of Altagore Cashel (p27) can be seen across the fields. Soon you<br />

are viewing some of the most impressive coastal scenery in these islands. The<br />

safest parking is at St Mary’s Church, Culraney. Driving on, select a low gear to<br />

climb the Green Hill and negotiate the tight bends. Turn right towards Torr Head<br />

where there is a large car-park. With care you can climb onto the headland which<br />

is just twelve miles from Scotland.<br />

Return to Torr Road and turn right towards Ballycastle. In 2 to 3 miles a sign<br />

points right to Murlough Bay, a beauty spot which is well worth visiting<br />

(2.5miles/4km). Returning to Torr Road turn right and right again at a T-junction.<br />

(In a mile is a sign to the right for Fair Head (2miles/3km). The physically fit can<br />

visit the 200m high sea-cliff by a half mile walk across mountain land from a carpark.)<br />

The road continues to a junction with the A2 at Ballyvoy village.<br />

Turn left on to the A2. The road rises steadily and soon after it levels off the<br />

entrance to Ballypatrick Forest Scenic Drive is on the left. (The 6 mile long drive<br />

gives the opportunity to cross an Irish river ford and rises to 300m giving<br />

excellent vistas. An unusual Double Horned Cairn from 2000BC can be visited and<br />

there are picnic sites and a turf-cutting area. The drive returns to the A2 half a<br />

mile north of the entrance. Turn right on reaching the A2.) On rounding a sharp<br />

right-hand bend you reach Loughareema (p27), the Vanishing Lake. There is<br />

informal parking just past it which provides a good photo point. The road now<br />

rises and soon begins the descent towards Glendun with spectacular views across<br />

the range of hills and <strong>Glens</strong> and down into Cushendun. Turn left down Cushleake<br />

Road (known locally as the Corkscrew!) to return to Cushendun.<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 35


activities and events<br />

Fishing<br />

Fishing Licences and fishing information can be<br />

obtained from O’Neill Country Sports, Old School,<br />

Mill Street,<br />

Cushendall – Tel: 028 2177 2009<br />

Email: oneillsport@gmail.com<br />

www.landnsea.co.uk<br />

Golf<br />

For further information contact Cushendall Golf<br />

Club – Tel: 028 2177 1318<br />

www.cushendallgolfclub.com<br />

Boating/Sailing<br />

Sailing courses available during July and August<br />

for both adults and children<br />

contact: 028 2177 1673 www.csbc.co.uk<br />

Walking/Rambling<br />

Walk the <strong>Glens</strong> Walking Festival<br />

First weekend of June<br />

www.walktheglens.co.uk<br />

Hurling Venues<br />

Oisins GAC, Garron Road, Glenariff<br />

www.glenariffeoisins.com<br />

Ruairi Og GAC, Coast Road, Cushendall<br />

www.ruairiog.com<br />

Robert Emmets GAC, Bay Road, Cushendun<br />

www.cushendungac.com<br />

Yearly Events<br />

Walk the <strong>Glens</strong> Walking Festival – June<br />

Feis na Gleann - June<br />

Cushendun Festival - July<br />

Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> Festival, Cushendall, - August<br />

Regular Events<br />

A copy of regular local events can be obtained from<br />

Cushendall Tourist Information Centre, Mill Street,<br />

Cushendall – Tel: 028 2177 1180<br />

36 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


Swimming/Leisure Facilities:<br />

Ballymena<br />

Seven Towers Leisure Centre, Trostan Avenue<br />

Ballymena, BT42 7BL Tel: 028 2564 1427<br />

www.ballymena.gov.uk/seventowers<br />

Larne Leisure Centre<br />

28-30 Tower Road, Larne, BT40 1AB<br />

Tel: 028 2826 0478<br />

Ballymoney<br />

Joey Dunlop Leisure Centre, 33 Garryduff Road<br />

Ballymoney, BT53 7AU Tel: 028 2766 0260<br />

Activity Centres<br />

Predator Charters Ltd<br />

Sea Angling (rod hire available)<br />

Scenic Tours Along <strong>Antrim</strong> Coast<br />

Seal Watching, Bird Watching<br />

Trips to Rathlin Island<br />

9 Bellisk Drive, Cushendall<br />

Tel: 028 2177 71828 Mob: 07720440117<br />

Email: info@predatorireland.com<br />

www.predatorireland.com<br />

Sheans Horse Farm<br />

38 Coolkeeran Road, Armoy<br />

Ballymoney BT53 8XL, Tel: 07759 320434<br />

www.sheanshorsefarm.com<br />

Watertop Farm<br />

188 Cushendall Road, Ballycastle<br />

BT54 6RN Tel: 028 2076 2576<br />

www.watertopfarm.co.uk<br />

Ardclinis Outdoor Adventure<br />

11 High Street, Cushendall, BT44 0NB<br />

Email: info@ardclinis.com<br />

www.ardclinis.com<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 37


useful contacts<br />

USEFUL CONTACTS<br />

<strong>Glens</strong> Medical Centre 028 2177 1411<br />

2 Gortaclee Road, Cushendall, BT44 0TE<br />

Out of Surgery Hours<br />

(Dalriada Urgent Care 028 2566 3500)<br />

Dentist – <strong>Glens</strong> Medical Centre 028 2177 1242<br />

Pharmacy – Mill Street, Cushendall 028 2177 1523<br />

Tourist Information Centre/Historical Office<br />

Old School House, Mill Street, Cushendall<br />

Tel: 028 2177 1180<br />

Email: antrimhistory@utvinternet.com<br />

www.antrimhistory.net<br />

Bank – <strong>Northern</strong> Bank, Shore Street, Cushendall<br />

Post Office,<br />

Costcutter, Main Street, Waterfoot 028 2177 1307<br />

Spar, 2 Coast Road, Cushendall 028 2177 1201<br />

Mace, Main Street, Cushendun 028 2176 1355<br />

Library<br />

Mill Street, Cushendall – 028 2177 1297<br />

Internet Access, Photocopying, Faxing<br />

Limited opening hours - check with library.<br />

Cushendall Development Office<br />

Old School House, Mill Street,<br />

Cushendall – Tel: 028 2177 1378<br />

Internet Access, Faxing, Photocopying, Laminating<br />

Email: cushendall@nacn.org<br />

www.glensfestival.com<br />

38 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>


church services<br />

CHURCH SERVICES<br />

Roman Catholic<br />

Glenariff<br />

Services Vigil Mass : Saturday 7.00pm<br />

Sunday Mass 10.00am<br />

Cushendall<br />

Services Vigil Mass : Saturday 7.30pm<br />

Sunday Mass 9.00am, 11.00am<br />

Cushendun<br />

Service Vigil Mass: Saturday 6.30pm<br />

Sunday Mass 12.00 noon<br />

Culraney, Torr<br />

Service Sunday Mass 10.00am<br />

Church of <strong>Ireland</strong>, Cushendall<br />

Service 9.00am Sunday<br />

Presbyterian Church, Cushendall<br />

Service Sunday’s 7.00pm<br />

during July and August<br />

The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong> | 39


Further Information<br />

Dr Bob Curran & Gregory Moore. North <strong>Antrim</strong>: Seven Towers to Nine <strong>Glens</strong>, Cottage Publications,<br />

Donaghadee, Co Down, 2005.<br />

Maureen Donnelly, The Nine <strong>Glens</strong>, Published by the author and printed by Impact Printing,<br />

Coleraine and Ballycastle, 2000 (revised)<br />

Tony McAuley. Tony McAuley’s <strong>Glens</strong>: Walking and Cycling in North <strong>Antrim</strong>, Cottage Publications,<br />

Donaghadee, Co Down, 2000.<br />

Randall McDonnell. Touring in the <strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong>, Coleraine Printing Co, Coleraine, 1996<br />

Frank Rogers. Glass in the <strong>Glens</strong>, Impact Printing, Ballycastle and Coleraine, 2004<br />

Alan Turner. The <strong>Glens</strong> of <strong>Antrim</strong>: Landscape of the <strong>Glens</strong> – Evolution and Development,<br />

Appletree Press Ltd, Belfast, 2005.<br />

All above available in the Tourism Office, Cushendall.<br />

www.causewaycoastandglens.com<br />

www.ireland-holidays.net<br />

Please follow the country code.<br />

Acknowledgements:<br />

<strong>Antrim</strong> <strong>Glens</strong> Tourism Group is grateful for support from the following organisations.<br />

The European Agriculture Fund for Rural Development:<br />

Europe investing in rural areas<br />

Picture credits:<br />

Causeway Coast and <strong>Glens</strong>/Vince Segerdal/Douglas James/Paddy O’Boyle/Susan McLaughlin/<br />

Una Rowan/Jacqueline McAlister/Hugo McCormick/Donnell O’Loan/Catherine Elliott/<br />

Paddy McLaughlin/Joe and Mary McFadden/Michael McKernon/The National Trust.<br />

All photographs copyright of their owners.<br />

Published by <strong>Antrim</strong> <strong>Glens</strong> Tourism.<br />

Design by Shanway, Belfast.<br />

Printed on Revive 100% recycled paper.<br />

The information in this Guide is given in good faith on the basis of information submitted to <strong>Antrim</strong><br />

<strong>Glens</strong> Tourism Group. <strong>Antrim</strong> <strong>Glens</strong> Tourism Group cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information in<br />

this guide and accept no responsibility for any error or misrepresentation.<br />

40 | The Heart of the <strong>Glens</strong>

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