LIFE

David Loe: Hearst Castle well worth a visit, especially if it's been a while

David Loe
Special to Ventura County Star
Hearst Castle in San Simeon.

I couldn’t be the only one. I’m pretty sure I’m not. I’ve been asking around.

I visited Hearst Castle decades ago,and then forgot about the place. Just totally took it off my radar. Been there...done that. Sound familiar?

Then on a whim, I went back to San Simeon a few weeks ago. Clearly, I had misjudged the potential fun of revisiting William Randolph Hearst’s little get-away villa.

Things had changed. Everything that is except the majestic house and the hill it sits on. Fortunately, his castle is still exactly the way Hearst left it when he locked the door behind him in 1947. He’d never return.

But that doesn’t mean we can’t. Here’s what’s changed in the last 30 years. 

The visitor center was all new to me. It features a continuously running movie called “Building the Dream.” Projected on a giant screen, it’s the story of the Hearst family and specifically the construction of William's dream house. There are a bunch of vintage clips and some great reenactments of the history of that dream. It’s narrated by Donald Sutherland and one of Hearst’s granddaughters.

When I go to National Parks, I always make a point of first seeing the visitor center’s introductory movie. I find it’s a great way to maximize my experience. Hearst Castle is a California State Park and yet their movie blows away even the best of the National Park films I’ve seen. Admission to “Building the Dream” is included in the price of the daytime tours.

So, after getting you all excited to see the place you've just heard so much about, one boards a comfortable bus (it was a rather uncomfortable school bus years ago) to head up the mountain. Alex Trebek of Jeopardy fame keeps you entertained and informed during the journey. Sadly, it’s a voice you cannot hear without being concerned about his battle with pancreatic cancer. 

The Neptune Pool at Hearst Castle in San Simeon is one of the site's main attractions.

When the bus journey ends, you start the specific guided tour you booked. I found the array of choices to be somewhat intimidating. Jim Allen, a 30-year employee of Hearst Castle, has since given me a few pointers on those many options to share with you.

If you’re a first-timer, you’ll probably want the dramatic “Grand Rooms Tour.” If you’re on a return visit, you might want the “Upstairs Suites Tour” where you get to visit the upper floors, including Hearst’s private quarters. Another option is the “Cottages and Kitchen Tour” to see where some of his famous guests were accommodated.

There are other tours also. The reason for all these choices? There’s 90,000 square feet of interior up on that hill. It would fry your brain and your feet to take that all in on one excursion.

At the conclusion of your guided tour, you are allowed to meander around the outside areas on your own. I don’t recall having that kind of freedom during my earlier visit. Spend as long as you like taking photos and checking out the gardens. I especially enjoyed taking in the views from every vantage point. Buses depart every few minutes so you can leave whenever you want.

One of the most unique things about Hearst Castle is that the contents are all original -– 22,000 items, according to Allen. Nothing has been taken away. There are no replicas. It’s just like it was back in Hearst's day.

Has it been a while since you’ve been? Never seen it? Start by visiting the park’s website at hearstcastle.org. You’ll find all the tours listed, including ones I didn’t mention, like evening tours, accessible tours, and, if you are quick, a “Holiday Twilight Tour.” 

Tours can be booked in advance on the website or by phone at 1-800-444-4445. You’ll also find on the park’s website road directions and suggestions for overnight options in the San Simeon and Cambria area if you don’t plan on making it a day-trip.

In the 1920s William Randolph, turned his newly built castle into a guest mecca for Hollywood celebrities and other famous people. It was a coveted invitation. Maybe you’ll be his next guest.

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David Loe was the co-owner of a travel business in Ventura County for 25 years. His column appears monthly. He welcomes your feedback at davidloe@sbcglobal.net.