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The hidden secrets of Northern Ireland's other capital
The ancient capital of Ulster, Armagh, offers lessons in history, architecture and cider
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Mention Northern Ireland's alluring scenery, and most will think of the region's famous Causeway Coast, or the myriad locations made famous by Game of Thrones. But drive just an hour south of Belfast and you'll reach County Armagh, a rural gem whose charms rarely get shouted about off the island.
At its centre is the city of Armagh, an "Irish Rome", built over seven hills and the home of the Catholic Church in Ireland. In a particularly Northern Irish paradox, the city is also the seat of the Protestant Church of Ireland's archbishop.
Once clouded by The Troubles, Armagh is now a place to get a clear view of Irish history, both religious and not. As well as being the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland, it's also the former capital of the Ulaid kings – who gave their names to Ulster – and Celtic legends abound alongside the county's beautiful architecture and vibrant green countryside. It's high time to get acquainted with them.
Stay here
Blackwell House (blackwellhouse.co.uk) is a characterful hotel that's become one of Northern Ireland's best destination dining establishments. A 30-minute drive from Armagh city in the historic village of Scarva, it was awarded Guesthouse of the Year 2019 by Ireland's longest-running food and hospitality awards, and is an ideal base for exploring the wider area.
Breakfasts and dinners are cooked by owner Joyce, and recipes have had a helping hand from Raymond Blanc. After meeting Joyce by chance, the Michelin-starred French chef sent a member of his own team over to work on the menus. Breakfasts feature eggs fresh from the garden hens and soda farl cooked on "great aunt Maggie's griddle". Originally starting with just three rooms, a further three rooms will be available from February 2020.
Looking for somewhere more central? The recently-renovated Armagh City Hotel (armaghcityhotel.com) is close to all the major sights and, more importantly for designated drivers, the bars.
Walk here
Some of the best examples of Georgian architecture in Ireland can be found in Armagh, giving the streets a striking resemblance to Bath. Never is this more apparent than during the city's annual Georgian Festival in November, when period markets, carriage rides, and costumed merrymakers fill the streets.
At all other times, the best way to get to know the city is on a walking tour with Donna Fox (donnafoxtours.com), a Blue Badge guide local to the city. Her tours take guests along the tree-lined Mall, and past the many structures created by the 'builder of Armagh', Richard Robinson. Becoming Archbishop of Armagh in 1765, Robinson was the first holder of the title to live in the city, and was responsible for the commission of a number of its most stately structures.
The finest is the Robinson Library (armaghrobinsonlibrary.co.uk), built in 1771 to display the Archbishop's own books and art. The oldest public library in Northern Ireland, its collection includes the only first edition of Gulliver's Travels. Inside are angry edits from Jonathan Swift made in response to an overzealous publisher who watered down some of his more acerbic satire.
See this
Armagh is a place so religiously important that in 1921 the Catholic church opted to keep the city as its seat of power, despite it being in the newly formed North. Two cathedrals dominate: Saint Patrick's Roman Catholic Cathedral (armagharchdiocese.org) and Saint Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral (stpatricks-cathedral.org), making it the only one city in the world with two churches named after the same saint. To skip either would be a sin.
The Catholic St Patrick's is a grand white construction atop a hill built in the late 1800s that is breath-stealing both inside and out. The Church of Ireland St Patrick's also sits on a hill, close to where Saint Patrick founded his main church in 445AD. In its crypt lies a collection of pre-Christian carved figures, while outside visitors will find the final resting place of Brian Boru, one of Ireland's most famous kings, and exquisite views in the series of gardens.
Do this
Dive into the myths and legends surrounding Armagh at Navan Fort & Centre (navan.com), the earliest capital of Ulster. Armagh derives its name from 'Ard Mhacha', meaning 'the height of Macha', the Celtic goddess of war and fertility who left her fingerprints all over the area. Navan Fort or 'Emain Macha' ('the twins of Macha') is the beating heart of the ancient stories that shape Ulster. The goddess is said to have given birth to twins and cursed King Connor in the prehistoric provincial capital, and scored the earth with her brooch pin to create the site's circular outline. Digs have shown that a royal family, druids and settlers all lived on the hill, making this one of Ireland's most important archaeological sites.
A museum goes into detail on the stories and finds, but the highlight of any fort visit is a time-travelling trip into a reconstructed dwelling to hear the tales told by a 'Craobh Ruadh' warrior and druid (available from April).
Eat here
Though the local cuisine is excellent in Armagh, Uluru Bar and Grill (ulurubarandgrill.com) adds a little antipodean flair to their classic Northern Irish ingredients. The one exception to this is kangaroo, a decidedly un-Irish mammal, which is barbecued on the indoor Josper (charcoal) grill until smoky and tender, and served alongside crisp sweet potato fries. Clearly Ireland and Australia is a winning combination, as the restaurant has won awards and is recommended by Michelin.
No trip to Ulster is complete without a homemade scone, and the ones at The Gathering Rooms (thegatheringrooms.org.uk) – an initiative for young people with autism – are excellent.
Shop here
Known as the Orchard County of Ireland, Armagh is rich with homegrown produce. Get to the heart of this moniker at the award-winning Armagh Cider Company (armaghcider.com), launched in 2005 by the Troughton family, who have been growing apples since 1898, but released their first cider in 2006.
Their creations are delicious enough to win big at food and drink awards across Ireland and Britain, and the company was granted Protected Geographical Indication status in 2012. There is a huge range of ciders, soft drinks and vinegar on offer at the farm shop, as well as homemade apple pie served in a canteen.
Drink here
The traditional Irish pub isn't limited to the Republic. Armagh has its fair share of craic-filled boozers, the best of which is The Hole in the Wall, which resides on Market Street in a 400-year-old building that was once a jail. Home to a friendly ghost called Wilfy and a parrot called Casper, it’s full of the other kinds of spirit too – namely, good cheer and whiskey. Enjoy both at the bar, which is the longest continuous counter in the country.
Those looking to continue their pub crawl in the city should seek out Red Neds on Ogle Street, a 100-year-old establishment known for its live music and excellent Guinness, and Keegan's, a cosy wood-furnished space on Irish Street.
Off the map
Drive 20 minutes from Armagh city and you'll find The Argory (nationaltrust.org.uk/the-argory); the former home of Irish gentry, the MacGeough–Bonds. Built in the 1820s, the 320-acre estate bordering the River Blackwater is now owned by the National Trust and has kingfishers along its riverbanks and an avenue of pollarded lime trees. Save time afterwards for another National Trust property, Ardress House (nationaltrust.org.uk/ardress-house), a 17th-century farmhouse in the heart of Armagh's apple orchards.
How to get there
Armagh city is an hour's drive from George Best Belfast City Airport. See aerlingus.com.
Alternatively, ferries to Belfast are available with Stena Line (stenaline.co.uk). An overnight crossing from Liverpool takes eight hours, while the crossing from Cairnryan takes two hours and 15 minutes. From Belfast port to Armagh city is an hour by car.
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