There’s no place like Como: how Italy’s most glamorous lakeside has retained its sparkle through the years 

As Valentina De Santis, of Passalacqua, Lake Como, is named Best Hotelier in the Tatler Travel Guide 2023, we revisit her insider guide from the May 2022 issue on how to do Lake Como in style

A stunning view over Lake Como 

anouchka

I am happiest when I’m on the waterfront terrace of my hotel, Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Or slicing through the emerald waters of Lake Como on an elegant wooden motorboat (or even one of the public ferries – known as battelli – which are just so chic here). 

I am very lucky to be able to call Lake Como ‘home’. When my grandfather bought the Grand Hotel Tremezzo in 1973, he wanted to preserve and restore all its Belle Époque charm and still keep it as a magnet for the magnificent – it has sheltered celebrities, royalty and all manner of well-heeled visitors over the years.

Grand Hotel Tremezzo

Roberto Bonardi

Growing up at Tremezzo, I can recall some of my happiest memories at the hotel, of running down corridors and hiding out in the kitchen with our chef – trying all his different dishes – not to mention sleepovers with my friends in the Suite Greta (named after Greta Garbo), which, for a seven-year-old, was mind-blowing.

The next project my family and I are working on is the transformation of one of the most spectacular properties on all of Lake Como, Passalacqua. It’s the most opulent aristocratic villa, swagged and gilded, dripping in crystal, with frescoes as far as the eye can see – with an illustrious history to match. Napoleon Bonaparte was a frequent visitor, as was Churchill and Bellini – who lived in the villa for some years, and composed his two most famous operas, La Sonnambula and Norma, here. At Passalacqua, no two rooms will be the same, and it’s this spirit of individuality and the feeling of being hosted in a private home that we want to convey. It will also be a place where you can eat the most simple, and at the same time, the most unforgettable food, such as the most spectacular spaghetti al pomodoro you have ever tasted.  

Grand Hotel Tremezzo - Sala Musica

Roberto Bonardi

ARISTOCRATIC ADDRESS:

Villa Sola Cabiati

OLIVER 63

Villa Sola Cabiati is something else; this six-bedroom mythical villa was once the former summer home of the Duke of Serbelloni and is a riot of gilt and glamour – all antiques, frescoes and weighty silk curtains. During the day, guests can take the Riva out and pootle the length of the lake, or happily stay put by the most divine swimming pool and gardens.

grandhoteltremezzo.com

MUST SEE:

Villa Carlotta 

Mirko Pradelli / Alamy

The gardens of Villa Carlotta are completely enchanting, with the most impressive collection of azaleas. The garden spans idyllic woodland, waterfalls, avenues of roses and hydrangeas, not to mention bamboo forests, and endless arches of lemon trees and, even, a fern valley. I also love to practise silvotherapy here, something that our Spa Manager taught me last year in our hotel’s sprawling gardens. It can sound a little weird, but I hug the most ancient-looking trees, and while doing so, I feel the deepest connection with nature that immediately calms me down.

villacarlotta.it

WHERE TO EAT:

La Terraza restaurant

At the hotel, I love the new Giacomo al Lago restaurant – it has a wonderful feet-in-the-sand vibe, as it’s right on the water and feels more like a beach club. I always order king crab spaghetti here. Another signature dish I never miss is the most decadent risotto laden with gold leaf shavings, which is served in the candlelit environs of the hotel’s La Terraza restaurant (and even comes with a unique numbered certificate – I have almost 50 of them).

I am a huge fan of La Fagurida (a little restaurant behind the hotel up in the mountains), which is the place to go for polenta and local grilled meats. Next door, Al Veluu, boasts some of the best views over Balbianello, and the most delicious tagliatelle with porcini. And if you want to stay on the lake, La Tirlindana is a wonderfully romantic spot right on the water, just in front of Isola Comacina. 

lafagurida.it; alveluu.com; latirlindana.it

This article was originally published in the May 2022 issue. Subscribe now to get 3 issues for just £1, plus free home delivery and free instant access to the digital editions.