Boats meander along the River Nile each day, sailing past the east bank of Luxor, where lush green surroundings slowly give way to towering monuments. Stopping only to release flurries of visitors into the ancient city of Thebes, these cruise boats offer tranquil respite from the crowded attractions along the river's shores.
As the political, social and economic metropolis of the New Kingdom of Egypt at its zenith, Luxor flourished between the 16th and 11th century BCE. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to the Karnak Temple, Valley of the Kings and Temple of Hatshepsut, and, today, visitors flood through its colossal pillars, marvelling at the architectural feats of ancient Egypt as they follow in the footsteps of the pharaohs. Countless avenues of sphinxes and statues line these imposing temples at the foot of a wadi, the ravine's walls concealing the rock-cut tombs of kings and queens.
After a long day discovering the remnants of this once-thriving civilisation, visitors can dine along the Nile and watch the sun set over the nearby sugarcane fields before heading back to their boat. Away from the chaotic landmarks of Luxor, tourists can once again enjoy the gentle sway of the water as they prepare for another day discovering the ancient sites along the river. Here are some of our favourite places to visit, eat and stay in the ancient city.
Things to see and do
Valley of the Kings
Far from the city centre, Valley of the Kings is tucked into a narrow gorge surrounded by steep, sandy cliffs on the west bank of the Nile. Chosen for its secluded location in order to deter tomb raiders, the mountains hide more than 60 tombs of New Kingdom pharaohs and royals. Visitors can make their way down steep passages into the elaborately decorated burial rooms that lay deep inside the valley. One of the most famous sites is the tomb of Tutankhamun. Discovered by Howard Carter in 1922, it is one of the few tombs not to have been raided before it was found. Carter worked in the valley for over a decade before discovering it and, according to historical accounts, it was in fact a young water boy who accidentally stumbled across the first steps down to the tomb.
Hot air balloon ride
Several companies offer hot air balloon rides across Luxor, with most hotels and local tour guides able to point you in the direction of a reasonably priced option. Whoever you choose to travel with, make sure to request a sunrise or sunset ride. The orange hues of the desert sun dance between ancient landmarks, illuminating the lush fields surrounding the Nile as crops sway in stark contrast to the steadfast desert mountains in the distance. From this bird's eye view, tourists can plan their itinerary, plotting visits to the Luxor Temple and nearby markets.
Karnak Temple
Karnak served as a major religious centre for nearly 2,000 years and is now the largest remaining temple construction in the world. Its size is largely owe to the fact that it was built over the reign of a number of pharaohs, allowing visitors to explore a diverse range of structures commissioned by rulers such as Hatshepsut, Thutmose III, Amenhotep III and Ramses II. One of the most impressive structures is the Great Hypostyle Hall inside the Precinct of Amun-Re; consisting of 134 towering columns arranged in 16 rows, the hall will soon have visitors questioning how ancient Egyptian builders achieved such an architectural triumph over 3,000 years ago. If, like me, these questions tend to play on your mind, Karnak temple is one of the only places where you are able to see the answer for yourself. Left partially unfinished, the site still holds the construction ramps used during the building process. These mud brick ramps, employed to transport massive stone blocks to the higher levels of the temple structures, are a rare insight into the engineering prowess of these ancient builders.
Felucca ride along the Nile
For visitors who didn't opt for one of the longer cruises down to Luxor, these short felucca rides are a great way to experience the beauty of the river and its surrounding landscapes. The traditional wooden sailing boats have been used on the Nile for centuries, taking visitors on slow meandering tours as they pass through tall reeds and survey local farmers' land. Closer to the city, the Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple can also be spotted from the Nile.
Luxor Museum
While a visit to the Valley of the Kings and Luxor's other historic sites is considered compulsory for tourists, they can often leave visitors slightly wanting. Many of these attractions, most notably the tombs, have been raided by thieves or have had items sequestered by museums. In order to see artefacts from the Ancient Egyptian period, visitors should make their way to the Luxor Museum, where a range of statues, pottery and jewellery can be found, with a notable collection of artefacts from the tomb of Tutankhamun also on display.
Mummification Museum
Anyone interested in Egyptology is likely intrigued by the mummification process and the rituals surrounding it. At the Mummification Museum in Luxor, any questions you have are likely to be answered. Here, visitors can learn about the step-by-step process of mummification, and the various tools and artefacts used, including embalming instruments, canonic jars (used to store organs) and linen bandages. Housing a range of well-preserved mummies and replica tombs, this museum will fascinate adults and children alike.
Temple of Hatshepsut
On the west bank of Luxor, the Temple of Hatshepsut was built directly into the natural rock face. As visitors drive up to the site, they'll be struck by the sheer size of its terraces, adorned with colonnades, ramps and statues. Before you enter the temple, be sure to look closely at the depictions of Queen Hatshepsut lining the entrance. One of the few female rulers of ancient Egypt, the statues of the queen portray her wearing a fake beard and masculine garb, both of which are traditionally worn by male pharaohs. These symbols portray the queen's strength, with the temple itself serving as a testament of her power and the economic stability of the trade networks she built during her reign.
Luxor Market
Most of the tourist attractions in Luxor have mini-markets in front of them, filled with peddlers touting their wares to tourists. Whilst the main Luxor market also has many of these tourist trinkets, it is always worth browsing through the range of souvenirs, carvings and clothing in order to find unexpected treasures. Follow the scent of homemade sweets, musk and spices as you head deeper into the market, gathering Middle Eastern za’atar and sumac along the way. Be sure to haggle with the merchants, as they often hike up prices for visitors.
Where to eat
Sofra restaurant
An old Arabic word, Sofra may literally mean dining table, but it is also a synonym for generosity and hospitality. Located in a rustic Egyptian house built in the 1930s, Sofra restaurant embodies this meaning. Diners will find themselves surrounded by hand-carved furniture and ornate mirrors, the soft scent of traditional Egyptian dishes enveloping them in a warm embrace. Try the bissara (split fave beans dip), betingan ma’aloob (an aubergine casserole cooked with rice and beef) and mahshi (stuffed vegetables), all of which are best washed down by cups of delicate mint tea.
El-kababgy
Serving authentic Egyptian food, El-Kababgy offers sweeping views over the Nile and the west bank of Luxor. Favourites include hammam (stuffed pigeon), fatta (fluffy rice topped with tender meat and toasted bread) and feteer ("cushioned pies" made of flaky pastry and a range of different fillings). Adventurous diners should opt for the hammam, as the succulent pigeon stuffed with freakeh offers a distinct, yet delicious, nutty flavour.
Where to stay
The Sofitel Winter Palace
Built in 1886, The Sofitel Winter Palace has had its fair share of famous guests, most notably playing host to Lord Carnarvon during his excavations of Tutankhamun’s tomb, and the mystery author Agatha Christie when she wrote Death on the Nile. After an afternoon spent drinking sweet hibiscus tea as the sun dances over the river Nile, guests are likely to feel similarly inspired. While visitors can enjoy the views from the hotel's grand communal spaces, ask for a Nile River view room and enjoy intimate sunsets from your private balcony.
A cruise between Luxor and Aswan
Several companies offer overnight cruises along the Nile, ranging from between one and seven nights long. For those looking to escape the usual bustle of travelling, this is perfect. Gliding along the river, nestled amid the rich foliage of the banks of the Nile, visitors can relax as they take in local sites. Stops along the way ensure you still have time to explore the Valley of the Kings, Karnak Temple and other attractions. If you are looking for opulent luxury, choose the Steam Ship Sudan; built at the start of the 20th century, the ship has been renovated to represent its historical roots in the Belle Époque style. steam-ship-sudan.com
Al Moudira
At the gateway into Luxor, Al Moudira Hotel sits along the west bank close to the Valley of the Kings. In contrast to the vast expanses of desert surrounding Luxor, the palace was built next to a natural spring, giving life to 10 hectares of greenery that provides a tranquil escape for weary travellers. It was built using distinctive Egyptian architecture, and guests will find themselves surrounded by terracotta domes, handcrafted wooden furniture and painted glass from Alexandria. Try one of their workshops for an insight into local textile design, metalwork and pottery. moudira.com