Auckland

Cosmopolitan Auckland, the largest Polynesian city in the world, is the home to a wide range of shops and restaurants, as well as busy harbours and beautiful beaches. The best views of the city can be seen from Auckland's Sky Tower, the tallest free-standing structure in the southern hemisphere, and from Mount Eden's summit, the highest point in the city. Auckland Harbour Bridge, connecting Auckland to the North Shore, is an iconic symbol of the city. Don't miss our guides to New Zealand's North Island, the South Island and Wellington - see all here.

Where to stay in Auckland

AACHEN HOUSE

39 Market Road, Remuera Auckland (00 64 9 520 2329; www.aachenhouse.co.nz). Exquisitely restored Edwardian villa with plenty of modern comforts. Located in the genteel and well-heeled suburb of Remuera, Aachen House is only a 10-minute drive from the city centre. £££

COTTER HOUSE

4 St Vincent Avenue, Remuera, Auckland (00 64 9 529 5156; www.cotterhouse.com). Regency mansions can be hard to find in Auckland, but if you head out to residential district of Remuera, you will find a bit of Old World glamour at the Cotters House. This beautiful hotel can be booked per room and as a whole - ideal if you are looking for a bit more privacy. The two guest rooms and two suites are very sumptuous and come with Egyptian cotton bed linen, DVD-players and internet access. £££

HILTON AUCKLAND

Princes Wharf, 147 Quay Street, Auckland (00 64 9 978 2000; www.hilton.co.uk/auckland). Not your typical Hilton: über-trendy retro futurism in a gleaming wharf shed redeveloped to resemble a cruise-liner. Located in a prime spot on the harbour front, Hilton Auckland is one of the city's most striking hotels. Its multi-million refurbishment was completed with the relaunch of White, its harbour-side restaurant. £££

MOLLIES

6 Tweed Street, St Mary's Bay, Auckland (00 64 9 376 3489; www.mollies.co.nz). Located in a leafy residential street near the centre, with views across Waitemata Harbour to the Auckland Harbour Bridge, Mollies is eclectic and theatrical. Frances Wilson, who inherited this family inn, is also a renowned opera teacher. The 13 plush suites are full of wonderful curiosities, each with a balcony, an enormous bed and a sumptuous bathroom. The Dining Room restaurant is unashamedly romantic and has won countless awards, but if you loathe the sound of young baritones practising, you ought to stay elsewhere. £££

STAMFORD PLAZA AUCKLAND

22 Lower Albert Street, Auckland (00 64 9 309 8888; www.stamford.com.au). A modern multi-storey hotel with an impressive inside, the Stamford Plaza Auckland has 332 rooms decorated in a seamless European/Asian mix. Located in the heart of the business district, the hotel goes all out to cosset business people with secretarial services. The Brasserie Restaurant is open from breakfast, and Patisserie on Albert is one of the best patisseries in New Zealand. There is a great chance that you will bump into a celebrity or head of state at the Stamford Plaza - Bill Clinton, Nelson Mandela and Lionel Richie have all stayed here. £

THE HERITAGE AUCKLAND

22-24 Nelson Street, Auckland (00 64 9 379 8553; www.heritagehotels.co.nz). Housed in a department store from 1932, The Heritage Auckland opened in 1998. The hotel has an offbeat edge, well-equipped rooms with both washing machines and microwaves, and is located in the heart of the business district. Hectors Restaurant is set in the hotels seven-storey atrium, and the Lobby Bar has retained its art deco design. Book one of the north-facing rooms for a view over the harbour. £

THE PEACE & PLENTY INN

6 Flagstaff Terrace, Devonport, Auckland (00 64 9 445 2925; www.peaceandplenty.co.nz). Located in Devonport, a glorious ferry ride across the harbour from the city centre, the Peace & Plenty is an elegant Victorian villa. Owner Judy Machin makes you feel like you've crossed the world to visit a friend and the seven charming rooms are neither too cutesy nor overstuffed with antiques. All have garden views; some have flower-filled balconies. Try this for breakfast: homemade muesli with fresh fruit, fresh muffins or line-caught salmon served with organic poached eggs. ££

QUAY WEST SUITES AUCKLAND

8 Albert Street, Auckland (00 64 9 309 6000; www.mirvachotels.com). Located in the business district, near the cafés and fashion shops on Vulcan Lane, Quay West is business-like yet homey: many relocating to New Zealand live here for months and the staff are friendly. The 52 suites have everything you need: a balcony, sitting room, kitchen and compact laundry room. Breakfast is served in the lounge, and there's 24-hour room service (although the menu is limited), but the kitchens are well-equipped and can be stocked on request. ££

WESTIN LIGHTER QUAY

21 Viaduct Harbour Avenue, Lighter Quay, Auckland (00 64 9 909 9000; www.westin.com). Located on the buzzy waterfront, in the Viaduct area, the U-shaped hotel sits out over the water and is decorated in a striking modernist style. It has 172 chic, simple yet luxurious rooms: the three corner harbour-view rooms are the pick of the mid-price range. New Zealand-born chef Mark Gregory returned from London in 2007 to open Q Restaurant and Bar. £££

Where to eat out in Auckland

DINE BY PETER GORDON 90 Federal Street, Auckland (00 64 9 363 7030; www.skycityauckland.co.nz ) Located on the third level of the Skycity Grand Hotel, Dine by Peter Gordon is by far one of Auckland's best restaurants. The a la carte menu offers mouth-watering fare such as miso marinated Akaroa salmon on roast kumara with a sweet-corn ginger puree and roast Cambridge duck breast with Spanish black-bean puree and cranberry galangal compote.

EURO Shed 22, Princes Wharf, Auckland (00 64 9 309 9866; www.eurobar.co.nz). Food lovers can't get enough of this waterfront restaurant, serving as much locally produced and organic food it possibly can. "Simple and elegant, traditional but flavoursome, easy on the eye and palate" is Euro's motto.

FRENCH CAFE 210 Symonds Street, Auckland (00 64 9 377 1911; www.thefrenchcafe.co.nz). As the name of the place clearly states, the food served in this restaurant has its roots firmly attached in modern European cooking. Chef and owner Simon Wright has trained in some of the best restaurants in Europe, and his passion for France can clearly be seen in his menus. Definitely one of the best restaurants in Auckland. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday and dinner Tuesday to Saturday.

KERMADEC Viaduct Quay, corner Lower Hobson and Quay Streets, Auckland (00 64 9 304 0454; www.kermadec.co.nz). Named after the Kermadec Islands halfway between New Zealand and Tonga, Kermadec opened in 1994 and has gone from strength to strength ever since. The menu combines European flavours with New Zealand produce, while the more relaxed brasserie gives guests the opportunity to admire the outstanding views of the harbour. A fine dining option is also available.

SAILS Westhaven Marina, Westhaven Drive, Auckland (00 64 9 378 9890; www.sailsrestaurant.co.nz). Sails is always going to be a classic venue for good food and atmosphere in Auckland. Set in the Westhaven Marina, the biggest of its kind in the southern hemisphere, Sails serves beautifully cooked and presented food, such as pure beef fillet with horseradish dauphinoise, asparagus, wild mushrooms and truffle hollandaise and crayfish straight from the tank. Open for lunch Monday to Friday. Dinner is served daily.

What to see in Auckland

MUSEUMS AND GALELRIES

AUCKLAND ART GALLERY Corner Wellesley and Kitchener Streets, Auckland (00 64 9 307 7700; www.aucklandartgallery.govt.nz). This is the largest art institution in New Zealand. The permanent collection contains a large number of works by New Zealand, Maori and Pacific artists, both historic and contemporary. The Gallery also showcases European paintings, sculptures and prints, from 1376 to today. Don't miss the New Gallery, an added wing to the main museum, on the corner of Wellesley and Lorne Streets.

AUCKLAND MUSEUM The Domain, Auckland (00 64 9 306 7067; www.aucklandmuseum.com). If you want to learn everything there is to know about the history of New Zealand and its Maori heritage, this is the place to go. Auckland Museum shows 'the natural, cultural, and social history' of the country, and has plenty of interesting short-term exhibitions. It also hosts daily Maori performances. Open daily.

KELLY TARLTON'S ANTARCTIC ENCOUNTER AND UNDERWATER WORLD 23 Tamaki Drive, Orakei, Auckland (0800 80 50 50; www.kellytarltons.co.nz). Built completely underground to best resemble the natural habitat of the species on show, Kelly Tarlton's Underwater World offers a rare chance to see some rare creatures. A see-through acrylic tunnel protects you from the water, and provides close encounters with sharks, stingrays and a large colony of penguins. Open daily.

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Corner Quay and Hobson Streets, Viaduct Harbour, Auckland (00 64 9 373 0800; www.nzmaritime.org). Situated in the heart of Auckland's harbour, the National Maritime Museum holds a large number of Polynesian and Maori vessels, artefacts from the history of whaling and trading along the coast, settlement and immigration, and European discovery voyages. Open daily.

Where to shop in Auckland

DEPARTMENT STORES

SMITH AND CAUGHEYS 261 Queen Street, Auckland (00 64 9 377 4770; www.smithandcaugheys.co.nz). New Zealand's favourite department store is represented both in downtown Auckland and in Newmarket. Level one contains the fashion hall, with brands like Benetton and Ralph Lauren. The Fine Foods Department is also well worth a visit, stocking both local and European goodies. Open daily.

FASHION

KAREN WALKER 15 O'Connell Street, Auckland (00 64 9 309 6299; www.karenwalker.com). Feminine fashion as shown during London Fashion Week, Karen Walker is a native Kiwi with a good reputation and plenty of customers in her home country. The shop on O'Connell Street also stocks Seven for all Mankind, Citizens of Humanity and Victor and Rolf.

TRELISE COOPER Princes Wharf, Quay Street, Auckland (00 64 9 366 1964; www.trelisecooper.com). Feminine and funky clothes, designed by Kiwi native Trelise Cooper, are sold in this shop. Trelise Cooper provides slightly serious clothes for women between the ages of 30 and 55, whereas Cooper by Trelise Cooper caters to a younger audience.

ZAMBESI Corner Vulcan Lane and O'Connell Street, Auckland (00 64 9 303 1701; www.zambesi.co.nz). Established by Elisabeth and Neville Findlay in 1979, Zambesi has become known in the southern hemisphere for its cool designs, with sharp edges and flowing fabric. The label avoids obvious trends to produce timeless fashion, and is heavily inspired by the nature and landscape of New Zealand. The shop also sells Nom*D's dark, intellectual and deconstructed clothes (www.nomd.co.nz).

FOOD

NEW ZEALAND WINEMAKERS CENTRE Corner Victoria and Elliot Streets, Auckland (00 64 9 379 5858; www.nzwinemakerscentre.co.nz). This shop houses one of the largest collections of New Zealand produced wine bottles in the country. The Winemakers Centre also delivers wine around the world for a small fee. Open Monday to Saturday.

The best things to do near Auckland

BAY OF PLENTY Head to the Bay of Plenty for beautiful stretches of beaches and secluded bays. Tauranga, Rotorua and Whakatane are the biggest towns in the area, and are rich agricultural suppliers to the rest of New Zealand.

LAKE TAUPO The largest lake in New Zealand, Lake Taupo, is situated in the centre of the island. It is a very popular spot for fishing, in particular because of its abundant quantities of trout and eel.

NORTHLAND At the top of the island, Northland has a strong Maori heritage, and is the home to numerous sites of historical interest. It is also the place to go for sailing, big game fishing and for taking pleasure cruises. There are still some Kauri trees to be seen, although many were felled during the 19th-century. Cape Reinga and Spirits Bay, on the northernmost tip of the island, are believed to be the place from which the souls of the dead depart on their journey to the afterlife, according to Maori folklore.

ROTORUA Known as 'the thermal wonderland' due to its hot mineral springs, boiling mud, geysers and volcanoes, Rotorua is unmissable on a trip to New Zealand. Hydrogen sulphide gas produced by the geothermal activity underground is to blame for the unfortunate rotten egg odour in the area.

How to get to Auckland

AIRPORT New Zealand's main international airport is Auckland International Airport at Mangere (00 64 9 275 0789; www.auckland-airport.co.nz), 24km south of the city. There are other international airports at Wellington and Harewood, close to Christchurch.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK Air New Zealand (0800 028 4149; www.airnewzealand.co.uk) British Airways (0844 493 0787; www.britishairways.com)

Both fly to Auckland via Los Angeles. Air New Zealand offers connecting flights to numerous destinations within New Zealand.

Tourist information for Auckland

NEW ZEALAND TOURISM BOARD Skycity, corner of Victoria and Federal Streets (00 34 9 367 6009; www.newzealand.com). There are plenty of i-SITE tourism offices run by the New Zealand Tourism Board across the country and in Auckland, offering advice on accommodation, tours and sights.