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It's a city that's famously blustery, hilly, and wet—but a common refrain among Wellingtonians is that you can’t beat Wellington on a good day. And they have a point: New Zealand’s compact capital is a picturesque city, curled around a sparkling harbor notched into the very bottom of the North Island. Emerald hills rise around the center, and bright, weatherboard villas spill down their steep slopes to meet the waterfront.
Wellington is more than just the politically appointed capital—it prides itself on being New Zealand’s cultural, coffee, and craft-beer capital as well. With the arrival of the FIFA Women’s World Cup and the city's participation in co-hosting the games, Wellington is once again proving it can hold its own among the world’s coolest cities. Here are the local haunts and creative hangouts to explore in verdant, multicultural Wellington.
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The best things to do in Wellington, New Zealand
Compressed between the mountains and sea, Wellington is easily explored on foot. Start your day like Wellingtonians do—with caffeine. If you’re not in a rush, pull up a stool in Pour and Twist, the only fully manual coffee brew bar in New Zealand. There’s no hissing espresso machine in here; the owners are just as enthusiastic about sharing the craft of hand brewed coffee as they are serving it and are happy to demonstrate different brew methods. For a faster caffeine fix, head to nearby Customs Coffee and pair a creamy flat white with one of Wellington’s famous cheese scones.
Go for a stroll down Cuba Street, the bohemian heart of Wellington. On this eclectic strip, you can browse vintage shops like Ziggurat, and Hunters and Collectors, or look for new vinyl at independent record stores. Don’t forget to look out for the clanking bucket fountain, an icon of the city. From Cuba Street, it’s only a short walk to one of Wellington’s star attractions—the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, which has pride of place on the waterfront. New Zealand’s national museum houses exhibits on Māori and Pacific history. Inside you can hear stories that celebrate the heritage of Māori people, and learn about the Moriori people who inhabit the Chatham Islands. There are also stunning collections of artworks like the exhibit from the Mataaho Collective, four Māori women who have been working together for the past decade. Admission to Te Papa is free, and the cavernous interior is a welcome refuge on days of inclement weather.
Keep walking around the waterfront and you’ll spot a series of sculptures with quotes from renowned New Zealand writers and poets. The Wellington Writers Walk is both a great way to explore the waterfront and get to know some of the literary names of New Zealand. If you feel inspired to pick up new reading material after your waterside walk, head to Good Books. This independent bookstore started by Wellington poet Jane Arthur and author Catherine Robertson does exactly what it says on the tin, featuring a carefully crafted selection of good books.
Make a quick escape from the central city on the fire engine red Wellington Cable Car that has been trundling up and down the Kelburn hillside since 1902. You can catch the cable car from Lambton Quay, the main shopping street running parallel to the waterfront. The cable car climbs around 120 meters in a short five minutes, saving you a hike up the hillside. Disembark at the Kelburn terminal; from here, you can walk through the Botanic Gardens and enjoy views across the city to the harbor beyond.
Catch the free shuttle to Zealandia, a fenced wildlife sanctuary with a 500-year plan to restore the valley where it’s located, wedged into a hillside not far from central Wellington, to a pre-human state. Visit Zealandia during the day for a chance to spot rare birds like tieke/saddlebacks, takahē and kākā, or at night for a chance to see nocturnal kiwi.
Round out any day of exploring in Wellington with a visit to one of the capital’s craft beer brewpubs. On the funky Hannah’s Laneway, a block over from Cuba street, you’ll find Fortune Favours spread across two stories of an old industrial building. Near the upper end of Cuba Street is Heyday, a pastel green brewpub in a former car battery shop. There are tables out the front, so on a fine day you can sit in the sunshine and smugly remind your present company—you can’t beat Wellington on a good day.
Where to eat
Wellingtonians are enthusiastic foodies. Dining out in Wellington often means trying cuisines you might never have considered before. Mabel’s for example, is a cozy restaurant bringing Burmese cuisine to Wellington. Opening on central Tory Street in January 2022, Mabel’s is named after co-owner Marlar Boon’s grandmother, who was a notable figure in the Wellington restaurant scene back in the 70s. Boon honors family recipes through innovative Burmese dishes like la phet thoke, a fermented tea leaf salad.
Just a few doors down from Mabel’s is Damascus, a Syrian restaurant that started off as a gazebo at Wellington’s food markets in 2017. It became so popular, Damascus found a permanent home on Tory Street in late 2022. Syrian-born chef Hasan Alwarhani serves up soul-nourishing portions of hummus, baba ganoush, and zahra, a dish of deep fried cauliflower.
A few blocks over is Cuba Street, one of Wellington’s great eating streets. Here you can find Kisa, a restaurant that started off as a Turkish pop up, but became so popular it’s now a fully fledged restaurant. The earth-hued interior is a warm and inviting space for savoring the Middle Eastern shared plates.
For a truly exceptional experience, nab a booking at Hiakai. Chef Monique Fiso started the restaurant as an avenue for exploring Māori ingredients and cooking techniques. Since its launch, Hiakai—which means hungry, or having a craving for food in Māori—has established itself as one of New Zealand’s most innovative restaurants, with Fiso challenging ideas of what Māori and Polynesian food culture can look like. Bookings are highly sought after, and released seasonally.
For cocktails, head to Kuikui Lane, a bar focused on manaakitanga, a Māori concept which loosely translates to taking care of people. Opened in December 2021, Kuikui Lane marries elegant cocktails with an unpretentious and relaxed environment, inspired by the hospitality of the owners’ grandmothers. Cocktails use exclusively New Zealand sourced ingredients, like Martinborough’s Reid+Reid gin infused with native botanicals horopito and kawakawa, and Kiwi Spirits Distillery Greenstone Gin, distilled with native Totara and Kahikatea berries.
Stay
The best places to stay in Wellington are clustered around the central Te Aro neighborhood, or along the waterfront, within easy walking distance of the city’s main sights.
The Intrepid Hotel opened its doors on central Ghuznee Street in 2021, offering 18 boutique rooms in a former Cadbury Chocolate warehouse. The contemporary design doesn't stint on luxury, while maintaining industrial details such as exposed brick and pipes, in homage to the architectural heritage of the building. On the ground floor of the Intrepid is Puffin, a delightful speakeasy style wine bar with a selection of organic and minimal intervention wines.
For a room right in the middle of the action, check out the colorful and whimsical Naumi Studio Hotel on Cuba Street. Located in a heritage-listed building, the interior design of the hotel has a boldness that meshes perfectly with the out-there nature of Cuba Street. A sister property, Naumi Hotel Wellington, opened right next door at the end of 2022 with a similarly eye-catching design. QT Wellington offers a lavishly arty stay only steps away from the waterfront and Te Papa Museum.
A little further along the waterfront, in upmarket Oriental Bay is Ohtel Wellington, where 10 boutique rooms meld mid-century style with modern comforts. The retro fifties and sixties vibe is right at home in arty Wellington.
