Fran Lebowitz once said, “If you read a lot, nothing is as great as you’ve imagined. Venice is—Venice is better.” Spend a few days in La Serenissima, as Italians call it, and it’s not hard to see why. As the sun glints off the water in the canals, the city seems to sparkle with a most improbable beauty. After dark, with no cars and hardly any noise, the narrow streets and stone piazzas seem more like a film set than a real place. Arched bridges, Gothic mansions, Renaissance palaces, and Baroque basilicas serve as reminders that Venice has had many rulers and architectural influences since its days as the center of a powerful maritime republic. In some ways, today’s Venice seems preserved in amber, but world-class events like the Biennale and museums like the Peggy Guggenheim Collection prove that the city can celebrate the glory of the past without getting mired in its trappings. These are the hotels, restaurants, bars, shops, and museums to seek out on your next trip.
Gritti Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel Duke Andrea Gritti’s glamorous Renaissance palazzo on the Grand Canal has hosted everyone from Elizabeth Taylor to Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie Pitt. A $50 million renovation ensured that the historic hotel’s terrazzo floors, gilded antiques, and Murano chandeliers shine brighter than ever. Request a canal-facing suite—many are named after past illustrious guests, including Hemingway and Peggy Guggenheim—and take a ride around the lagoon on the hotel’s private Riva speedboat. From $1,301/night; thegrittipalace.com
Baglioni Hotel Luna Standing on the site of a church built by the Knights Templar, right at the entrance to Piazza San Marco, the Baglioni Hotel Luna—a member of the Leading Hotels of the World—exudes the opulence of the Venetian Renaissance. The hotel’s 91 rooms and suites are done up in classic elegance, with luxurious textiles, inlaid wood furniture, and Murano glass lamps. Bonus: The Marco Polo Salon, where breakfast is served, features a showstopping ceiling fresco by pupils of Tiepolo. From $592/night; baglionihotels.com
Antiche Carampane Locals flock to this casual but stylish trattoria on a quiet street in Campo San Polo for daily specials highlighting the best of Venetian cuisine, like spaghetti alle vongole punched up with a touch of pesto. If you’re in luck and soft-shell crabs are in season, you can eat them lightly fried with a crisp glass of Ribolla Gialla. 1911 Rio Terà de le Carampane, San Polo; antichecarampane.com
Ristorante Canova Set inside Baglioni Hotel Luna, Ristorante Canova is an eminently refined setting for lunch or dinner, offering Venetian specialties like baby shrimp fished from the lagoon and served over polenta, or linguini with shrimp and spicy tomato sauce. The elegant dining room features wood paneling, damask wallpaper, and white-tablecloth tables. 1243 San Marco; baglionihotels.com
Riva Lounge at Palazzo Gritti Arrive in style at the hotel’s private dock and grab a canal-side table at the Riva Lounge on the terrace, where you can watch the gondolas glide by the majestic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. If the weather’s less than perfect, head inside to the moss-hued Bar Longhi, which has the vibe of a gentleman’s club crossed with Venetian Renaissance style. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio; thegrittipalace.com
Caffè FlorianLocals and visitors alike linger over espressos or cocktails at the 18th-century Caffè Florian—one of the oldest cafés in Europe—to soak up its Baroque elegance. Located under the arcades at Piazza San Marco, it epitomizes the city’s glamour with red velvet banquettes, marble tables, and gilded mirrors. 57 Piazza San Marco; caffeflorian.com
Massimiliano Schiavon Many contemporary glassmakers on the island of Murano make kitschy items for tourists—but not Massimiliano Schiavon, a master craftsman known for his unique chandeliers, vases, and sculptures. A sixth-generation glassmaker, he carries on the tradition of glassblowing while incorporating modern techniques. His showroom is a riot of colors and shapes—stop by to find a one-of-a-kind piece. 26 Fondamenta Vetrai; massimilianoschiavon.com
Nardi A family-run jewelry shop established on Piazza San Marco in the 1920s, Nardi was a favorite of the postwar jet set, including Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. Earrings made with precious stones, mask-shaped cuff links, and gold rings in the shape of the Rialto Bridge exude Venetian style. 69 Piazza San Marco; nardi-venezia.com
Palazzo Ducale A trip to Venice wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the pink-and-white Palazzo Ducale on Piazza San Marco. A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the former duke’s palace and seat of government during the Venetian Republic houses paintings and frescoes by the Venetian Renaissance masters Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese. A typical tour will take you through the rooms of the Biblioteca Marciana and over the Bridge of Sighs to the prison. 1 Piazza San Marco; palazzoducale.visitmuse.it
Peggy Guggenheim Collection Though Peggy Guggenheim was the family’s black sheep during her lifetime, her home on the Grand Canal is now part of the Guggenheim Foundation, and it’s a must-see museum for art lovers. The eccentric collector who helped launch the careers of some of the 20th century’s most important artists, including Jackson Pollock, amassed the formidable collection on view in her 18th-century palazzo. Pop in to admire works by Brancusi, Calder, Chagall, de Chirico, Dalí, Max Ernst (to whom she was married), Giacometti, Magritte, Miró, Mondrian, and Picasso. 701 Dorsoduro, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni; guggenheim-venice.it
