Carrickfergus Castle, Northern Ireland
Carrickfergus Castle is possibly Ireland’s best-preserved Norman castle. The Battle of Hastings (Norman conquest of England) was fought and won in 1066, but the Norman conquest of Ireland didn’t take place for another 100 years, in 1169, when Strongbow made an alliance with the McMurrough-Kavanagh family (eventually marrying daughter Aiofe) and the Normans invaded Counties Wexford and Waterford in Ireland’s southeast. It didn’t take long for eastern Ireland to fall under Normal rule, deposing the Irish king. Built in 1177, Carrickfergus Castle was designed to be Norman noble John de Courcy’s headquarters from which to rule this corner of Ulster. In fact, Carrickfergus predates Belfast as Ulster’s capital and main city. De Courcy was top Norman at Carrickfergus until 1204 when he was ousted by compatriot Hugh de Lacy, another well-known name in Ireland. See, Carrickfergus is a proper fortress. Built on a narrow rocky outcrop over the local harbour, the castle has massive walls, a strong keep and its own well, meaning as long as it was stocked with food, it could hold out on a siege for a very long time. But, nothing is impossible, and in 1210 King John laid siege and waited them out, taking control of the castle when those few still alive could stand it no longer. Over the years, the castle grew in size and comfort. A beautiful vaulted chapel was built in Romanesque style – still one of the best parts of the castle. As gunpowder came into being, the castle acquired gun loops and cannons. Carrickfergus was generally seen to be a sign of English dominance over the local Irish, and it was from here that the Crown launched its forces. Carrickfergus changed hands many times in the 17th and 18th centuries, and was used as a prison during the Napoleonic wars – remnants of cells remain to this day. While the regional capital of Northern Ireland was eventually moved to Belfast and Carrickfergus lost some of its importance, it remains a bustling and colourful market town, lovely and beautiful in this lesser-visited corner of the famous County Antrim.
Pro tip: Do the guided tour – it is worth it! And it doesn’t cost any extra. The tour guides are really passionate about the castle, and you’ll learn plenty. Afterwards, if it’s a warm day, go to the local shop – almost any will do, look for the plastic cones – and ask for a “99” – soft serve ice cream with a chocolate flake. A favourite of the Irish no matter the weather! (Too cold for you? Go for a pint instead – you have plenty of options. We recommend a Guinness.).
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