Tournus in Burgundy | Secret France

The little-known town of Tournus in Burgundy is one of those secret places in France that hardly anyone seems to have heard of and yet – it is an extraordinary place and absolutely deserving of being better known. The town is home to a stupendous 17^th century Hotel Dieu, a public hospital. There are winding cobbled streets lined with ancient buildings. Surrounded by vineyards, the local wines are quite superb. And there is an inspired gastronomic scene with an international reputation says Janine Marsh.

Tournus

Tournus in the Saône-et-Loire Department is overshadowed somewhat by neighbouring Cluny, home to one of France’s greatest abbeys. But stray a little because Tournus, a town of some 6000 people that sits astride the Saône River, surrounded by vineyards and glorious countryside, is a well-kept secret that deserves a detour.

Abbey of Saint Philibert

Tournus has its own Abbey – Saint-Philibert, one of only two churches left in France with this type of Romanesque architecture which spans from the 11^th and 12^th centuries. There’s also a fascinating bike museum where you can even take a ride on some unusual bikes. Tournus’ picturesque alleys are home to beautiful buildings, artisan shops and art galleries. But for me, the real surprise was the incredible Hotel Dieu, certainly a rival to the famous Hospices de Beaune.

Hotel Dieu of Tournus

This ancient hospital has been restored to look just as it did in its heyday in the 17^th century. You can only visit by guided tour, but it is so worth it, taking in the atmospheric sick wards, the extraordinary apothecary, and exquisite plate room and medicinal gardens.

There’s a rather horrifying collection of medical instruments on display and frankly, there is nowhere I’d like to have those nozzles inserted! The guide takes great pleasure in explaining what all the needles, hooks and jagged metal implements are for, and if you’re in any doubt about how utterly awful medical treatment might have been a few centuries back, he will enlighten you.

I was quite sure I could smell the smoke from the ancient fireplace in the men’s ward, and it’s easy to imagine these wood panelled rooms lit by candle. The beds are made as if waiting for an intake of 17^th century patients, very short beds as was the fashion of the day when people slept half sitting (lying flat was associated with death). There is also an incredible plate room full of 18th century pewter treasures.

And the apothecary is full of sparkling glass bottles and blue and white porcelain jars that once stored ointments and potions where I spotted a beautiful jar of Vinaigre des Quatre Voleurs – Four Thieves Vinegar – which is still used to this day in France for various ailments including colds and lice. Legend has it that in the 14^th century, four thieves from Marseilles robbed corpses during a plague epidemic, without themselves ever being contaminated. They claimed to have discovered a remedy, the famous ‘vinegar of the four thieves’, which they took daily, containing herbs such as garlic, mint, lavender, sage, rosemary and thyme steeped in cider vinegar.

With its 300 jars, and ancient wood panelled walls, this is one of the oldest and most well-preserved apothecaries in France.

There is also a truly stunning chapel, and a pretty medicinal garden.

Incredibly the hospital functioned until the late 20^th century, closing its doors to patients only in 1982.

This is as extraordinary a place as you will find in France and yet it is hardly known even to those who live nearby. Ben, the guide, says there is a soul to this building and whispered ‘au revoir’ when he closed the doors. I whispered it too, I think he’s right.

(Audio guide is available in English, German, Dutch, and Italian, book your tour at Tournus tourist office).

Wine tasting

Burgundy is wine country, and at Vignerons de Mancey you can sample and buy the finest local wines, white, red and a superb crémant made the same way as Champagne. Here you can also taste Aligoté – a traditional white wine, “a local thing” says the guide adding it’s better used in cocktails. I highly recommend the delicious wines served with creamy local goats’ cheese, salty comté from neighbouring Jura, and cheese gougères which Burgundians tuck into at the drop of a hat – a brilliant cheese and wine tasting tour.

Tasting sessions are held daily. Reserve in advance if you want a tour in English – by email direct at lesvigneronsdemancey.fr or via the very helpful tourist office and believe me you do not want to miss this one!

Tournus is a taste sensation!

Food and wine lovers are spoiled for choice in this little town which is on the 620km route of the Vallée de la Gastronomie which runs from Burgundy to Marseille.

From the fabulous wine tasting cellar of the elegant Hotel les 7 Fontaines, to the cute brocante café where you can browse the second hand treasures as you sip a coffee and nibble on a home-made biscuit this town is seriously scrumptious.

Tournus is a gastronomic giant with not just one, but two Michelin starred restaurants in the centre of the town. The kitchen of Restaurant L’Ecrin in a historic building, now the hotel Maison Greuze, is run by Yohann Chapuis. The menu serves divine classic dishes but with an innovative twist, featuring herbs and spices that make your tastebuds tingle.

And at Aux Terrasses hotel and restaurant, there is absolutely nothing remotely ordinary about Chef Jean-Michel Carrette’s dishes. At this restaurant there is no menu, chef makes what he is inspired by according to the seasons and produce available using local and organic ingredients. You can of course notify the staff of any dislikes or allergies and chef will create a dish for you that suits your taste. This is a chef with a conscience who cares deeply about the planet and ‘the part we play in it.’ His philosophy is to “have a good life and a happy customer”, both of which he works hard at, and his ethos is to 100% recycle what comes from his kitchen – with zero waste.

An adventure on the table

I honestly didn’t want the experience of eating spicy tiny pancakes with the freshest of peas to end. A lightly braised leek whose leaves were individually teased to create a flamboyant concoction was as beautiful as it was tasty. Every course was a work of art and a delectable adventure. The food is truly outstanding, at times playful, ethereal even, and occasionally bonkers. The chef is clearly a genius in the kitchen and his food is outstandingly, mouth-wateringly delicious. He sings well too!

And it’s at a tempting price too for a Michelin starred menu – from 42 euros for three courses.

tournus-tourisme.com

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life.