Trafalgar Square is often considered to be the heart of London. Positioned at the top end of Whitehall it has often played an important role in commemorations and celebrations. The square leads directly to Buckingham Palace via the Mall and also to the Palace of Westminster along Whitehall. It links all the main residences of state from royal to parliamentary and is overlooked by number of important buildings.
Trafalgar Square History
The statues of Trafalgar Square are centered around the imposing monument of Nelson’s Column. This in turn is guarded by four giant lions. In the centre of the square are two fountains, themselves with sculptures contained within. Four plinths are positioned at four different corners of the square. Overlooking from the north is the impressive façade of the National Gallery. From the east it is penned in by Canada House and from the west by the church of St Martin in the Fields. The statue of Charles I on horseback is to the south which leads to Whitehall.
Battle of Trafalgar
Trafalgar Square takes it’s name from the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. A naval victory which formed part of the Napoleonic wars fought against France and Spain. It took place on 21 October 1805 just off the coast of Cape Trafalgar near to Cadiz on the Atlantic Coast. The battle would live a long time in the collective British consciousness. The square was named after it in 1830.
Kings Mews
Prior to the development of the square much of the area now occupied by it was part of the Kings Mews. Since at least 1534 it was the site of the Kings Stables. These would only move to their current location at Buckingham Palace in 1825. Before then the Kings Mews hosted the Royal Hawks. The name Mews takes its name from ‘mew’ which means ‘moulting‘. The birds would be kept in ‘mews’ as when they moulted they wouldn’t be used for hunting. The mews burnt down in a fire in 1534. Despite being rebuilt as stables for horses, the name stuck.
© The Trustees of the British Museum. Issued under creative commons licence
Falconry and Edward I
The history of the Mews goes back to the reign of Edward I. Here records can be found that refer to their building from 1273. The history of falconry in England goes back much further to the time of the Anglo Saxon kings. At the time of the Norman Conquest it was being actively pursued. First recognised for it’s more functional attributes as a means to catch game. It would go on to become a prestigious activity in royal life and in the life of the gentry. Edward I became a passionate advocate of the sport and spent large amounts of money each year on pursuing his pastime.
The Royal Stables
During the reign of Henry VIII the purpose of the mews changed from Falconry to Stabling. He had been actively redeveloping the whole area around what would become the Palace of Whitehall. Eventually turning it into the seat of Royal power. Previous stabling provision for the king was in Lomsbery (modern day Bloomsbury) and he needed it to be closer. This was especially the case as the king loved jousting and his Tilt Yard (modern day Horse Guards) was a major part of Whitehall Palace.
Changing Use
Over the years, as the area developed around the old Palace of Whitehall and Charing Cross. It is likely that the mews took on multiple purposes. During the time of Oliver Cromwell it was cleared for “protectors use” before getting a redevelopment of sorts after the restoration. Further plans were proposed by Sir Christopher Wren to revamp the mews to contain 388 horses and 42 coaches though this was never carried out. Instead the only major improvement took place in 1732 when the main block of stables was rebuilt. This would have stood on the site of today’s National Gallery.
Development of Trafalgar Square
The development of what would become Trafalgar Square was heavily influenced by then Prince Regent, the future George IV. He had wanted to revamp the area and much of today’s West End was developed at this time. The term ‘Regency Architecture’ comes from this period. In 1826 Parliament passed the Charing Cross Act. It paved the way for the areas development. Back in 1812, George’s favourite architect John Nash had already drawn up proposals for what a ‘square or crescent’ in front of the Mews would look like. After concerns were raised that the original plans might leave unequal sides, Nash was then asked to redesign what would become Trafalgar Square today.
National Gallery
After the passing of the Charing Cross Act in 1826, the area of Trafalgar Square started to be cleared. Over the next 30 years the square would begin to become recognisable as what we see today. The main building, the new National Gallery designed by William Wilkins, would be the centrepiece. Starting in 1832 it would take until 1838 to complete. It replaced the main stable block of the Royal Mews. The stables were relocated to Buckingham Palace on the orders of George IV.
© The Trustees of the British Museum
Collection for the Nation
The gallery was needed to display the nations collection of paintings. These had previously been housed nearby at the Angerstein Gallery on Pall Mall. Named after John Julius Angerstein, in 1824 his collection of 38 paintings had been bought by the nation. They were to form the nucleus of a new national collection. Initially housed at Angerstein’s home at 100 Pall Mall it was opened to the public on 10 May 1824. As the collection started to grow, this location would become too small. It was decided that it would be moved to Trafalgar Square and into the new National Gallery. Soon after the relocation 100 Pall Mall was demolished. Today the location is occupied by part of Carlton Gardens and the Reform Club.
Charles Barry
William Wilkins died one year after the completion of the National Gallery in 1839. The year after in 1840 Charles Barry was asked to design the actual layout for the square. This included the creation of the terrace in front of the gallery and the levelling and paving of the area. By this point it had also been decided that the imposing Nelson’s Column would be built. This was something Barry opposed as he felt it would dwarf the gallery and spoil the effect of the new terrace. Work however had already begun the year before in 1839 so he had to set his objections aside.
© National Portrait Gallery, London issued under creative commons
Statues, Fountains and Lions
Eventually the square started to take shape and become populated. An equestrian statue of George IV (1843) and statues of Sir Charles Napier (1856) and Sir Henry Havelock (1861) were added. A fourth plinth intended for an equestrian statue of William IV was never completed. The fountains were installed in 1845 but replaced in 1948 and the Lions surrounding Nelson’s column added in 1867. Later additions included a statue of General Charles George Gordon in 1888. This however was relocated. First in 1943 to Mentmore Towers in Buckinghamshire and then in 1953 to the Victoria Embankment Gardens. Busts of Admirals Beatty and Jellicoe were added against the northern wall in 1948 and a further one of Admiral Cunningham was added in 1967.
© The Trustees of the British Museum
Modern Improvements
The next major set of improvements to Trafalgar Square commenced in 1996 and took until 2003 to complete. By this time it had become more of a traffic island in one of London’s busiest areas and difficult to access. The proposal from architect Norman Foster was to completely remove traffic from the north side in front of the National Gallery creating a grand new pedestrianised space. The access from the gallery to the main square was also improved with grand new steps creating a more open grander feel.
The Statues of Trafalgar Square
Nelsons Column
Primary of all the sculptures in the square is Nelson’s Column. Hugely imposing it was designed by William Railton and stands at 169 ft high. Building commenced in 1839 and was finished in 1843. The huge column is made of granite from Foggin Tor in Devonshire. The statue on top is made from Craigleith Stone and was sculpted by Edward Hodges Baily. He is positioned in such a way that he is looking out towards the direction of Cape Trafalgar.
Four Friezes
Around the base of the column are four friezes made out of melted down French guns. Each depict a scene from key moments in Nelsons history. These are the Battle of St Vincent, the Bombardment of Copenhagen, the Battle of the Nile and the death of Nelson at Trafalgar. They were sculpted by Musgrave Watson, John Ternouth, William Woodington, and John Edward Carew respectively.
Landseer’s Lions
Four bronze lions also guard each corner of the monument. An original part of Williams Railton’s design they nonetheless were only added between 1866 and 1867. Representing dignity and strength they were made from a model from Sir Edwin Landseer and cast by Baron Marochetti. Landseer however was not the original artist commissioned for the work. Thomas Milnes had already made a set of four stone lions for the site. They were however judged not impressive enough for the Nelson statue and bought by Titus Salt for his mill in Saltaire. Landseer took over despite being best known for his paintings and certainly not known as a sculptor. He spent years on the commission often receiving criticism for his slow progress. He would visit the zoological gardens to study the habits of lions eventually perfecting a series of studies before setting on his couchant (sitting) positions.
Battle of Trafalgar
Nelson’s column is both a monument to Horatio Nelson and to the tactics used to win the Battle of Trafalgar. Deciding to split his fleet into two columns they headed directly into the enemy fleet which was expecting a parallel engagement. The result would be to split the Spanish and French fleets and to destroy them with cannon as they pierced the line. Knowing that the lead ship with such a tactic would likely take a lot of fire, Nelson insisted that his ship, the HMS Victory did just that. His second in command Rear Admiral Cuthbert Collingwood would lead the next column on HMS Royal Sovereign. Nelson would meet his death at the battle which would go down as one of the greatest victories in British naval history.
© National Portrait Gallery, London
Fountains of Trafalgar Square
The fountains in Trafalgar Square formed part of Charles Barry’s original design and were installed in 1845. Made of Peterhead red granite from a quarry in Stirlinghill near Boddam they were built by McDonald & Leslie of Aberdeen. Contained within a large octagonal base the fountains would rise from the centre. At this time they were fed by groundwater via the use of two artesian wells. One situated in Orange Street behind the National Gallery and another just in front of it. These wells were sunk and then connected to each other via a 6ft wide tunnel to provide the reservoir needed.
Memorials to Jellicoe and Beatty
Eventually as the area around the square developed, the water from the wells became more unstable. It meant that the fountains would need to be replaced and a new pumping system built. Eventually this would mean taking water from the mains as opposed to the localised groundwater system. In 1936 it was agreed that a national memorial to Lord Jellicoe and Lord Beatty would be built. The new fountains and sculptures along with busts of both former commanders of the Royal Fleet along the northern wall of the square would serve as this memorial.
Replacement Fountain and Mermaids
The old fountains were removed in 1939. Then, following a long delay due to the outbreak of war, on 21 October 1948, the new fountains designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens were unveiled by HRH the Duke of Gloucester. A series of bronze statues featuring mermaids and sea creatures were also created by William McMillan and Charles Wheeler during the same time period. Charles Barry’s original design had not included additional sculpture so this was the first time they had been added to the base of the fountain.
Gifts to Canada
Charles Barry’s original fountains can still be seen but only in North America. After it was decided that they were to be replaced they were acquired by the National Art Collection Fund for Britain and gifted to Canada. One was placed in Confederation Park in Ottawa and served as a memorial to Lieutenant Colonel John By who founded the city when it was called Bytown. The other was placed at the Wascana Centre in Regina the capital of Saskatchewan. It honours the establishment of the North West Mounted Police at Regina in 1882.
General Sir Charles Napier
General Sir Charles James Napier (1782-1853) was a British military officer. He served notably as the Governor of the Sindh province in modern day Pakistan and also as the Commander in Chief of the British Army in India. His statue on Trafalgar Square is to the immediate left of Nelson’s Column. He is shown holding a scroll in his right hand which is symbolic of his administration of Sindh. In his left he has a sword which he is holding up to his chest.
Public Subscription
Sculpted by George Gammon Adams and erected in 1856 it is bronze and stands on a tall granite pedestal. In his lifetime he was considered to be a popular commander amongst the rank and file. On the base of the plinth it states that the statue was ‘erected by public subscription the most numerous contributors being private soldiers’.
Conquest of Sindh
Napier’s conquest of Sindh is probably his most notable achievement. Appointed at the age of 60 to a command in Bombay, he went into the province to try and quell an insurrection. The campaign he led resulted in the conquering of the whole province which initially went beyond his initial brief of quelling an uprising. As a leader he was a contrary figure. Often espousing views that would have been quite liberal for the standards of the day. He was nonetheless still living and working in a time of colonialism.
Statue Criticism
Over the years the statue has been the subject of some controversy. Mainly this has been due to its quality and relevance. At the time it was first erected it received some harsh criticism. The Art Journal in 1862 saying that it was perhaps “the worst piece of sculpture in England”. In 1936 it was suggested that the Napier and adjoining Havelock statues be replaced with more contemporary military heroes. The idea being that statues of Admiral David Beatty and Admiral John Jellicoe should take their place. This never happened and Beatty and Jellicoe’s busts were instead placed against the north wall of the square. Finally in 2000 the London Mayor Ken Livingstone suggested that both the Napier and Havelock statues should be removed as he “didn’t have any idea who they were”.
Major General Sir Henry Havelock
Another career military man, Sir Henry Havelock (1795-1857) fought in battles across the globe at the height of British imperialism. He fought in the First Anglo-Burmese War (1823-6), the First Anglo-Afghan War (1839-42), the First Anglo-Sikh War (1845-6) and the Anglo-Persian War (1856-7). Most significantly he fought in the Indian Rebellion of 1857, now perhaps better known as the ‘First War of Indian Independence’. As part of this he recaptured Cawnpore following the brutal massacre of locals by rebels in what became known as the Bibighar Massacre. After this he led the capture of Lucknow following a number of unsuccessful attempts. He died of dysentery shortly afterwards.
Statue on Trafalgar Square
The statue to Henry Havelock on Trafalgar Square was made by the sculptor William Behnes. It shows Havelock in military dress with his left hand resting onto a grounded sword. His right loosely holds on to his belt giving a relaxed pose. Made of bronze it stands on a granite plinth to the right of Nelsons Column. Installed in 1861 it is thought that it was the first sculpture to ever be created from a photograph. The monument specifically references the 1857 Indian campaign. It is also another that was funded through public subscriptions.
King George IV
George IV (1762-1830) was King of England for ten years between 1820 and 1830 and Prince Regent since 1811. He took over the throne from his father George III and was the oldest son of George and Queen Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Streilitz. It was during his reign that the planning and laying out of Trafalgar Square began. The architect John Nash drew up plans for the square and would work closely with the king on a number of projects. Together they would develop what became known as the Regency style of architectural design.
West End Development
Other notable redevelopments instigated by George were the rebuilding of Buckingham House into a palace and the development of Regent Street. Both projects were led by John Nash. In terms of the West End of London much of its development was certainly influenced by George either as Regent or King. He also ordered the re-design of Windsor Castle giving it the look it has today and the building of the Pavilion in Brighton as a kind of seaside home. A man of expensive tastes he was also a collector of many artworks. Much of what he acquired now forms a key part of the Royal Collection.
Debt and Marriage
Despite these achievements, George IV was never really a very respected monarch. Known as ‘Prinny‘ much of what he collected or remodelled was for personal use. Even the development of Regent Street was more for his personal benefit. He had wanted to connect Nash’s newly remodelled Regents Park (formerly Marylebone Park) to his residence at the now demolished Carlton House. George’s extravagant tastes would ultimately plunge him into debt. Bailed out only via large grants from parliament. His marriage to his cousin Caroline of Brunwick in 1795 was actually a condition for his debts to be cleared. Unhappy with the union it was not a success and they separated. Prior to this in 1785 George had been secretly married to a commoner called Maria Fitzherbert. This was frowned upon and not considered to have any legal basis as his father George III had not given his consent.
Equestrian Statue
Installed on 1 December 1843, George IV is shown bare headed and in Roman dress. He is shown sitting on a horse. A baton is held in his right hand whilst resting on his thigh. In his left a bridle is held loosely. Sculpted by Sir Francis Chantrey, the statue was originally intended for a position on top of the Marble Arch. It is thought that the position showing the horse at rest was an innovation for the time. Most previous equestrian statues tending to show the horse either curvetting or ambling. The statue was funded by George himself.
The Fourth Plinth
Originally meant to have been used for an equestrian statue of William IV it was something that never happened due to funding issues. Left empty for years things started to change when Prue Leith, then chair of the Royal Society of Arts (RSA), stated a public debate about what to do about the empty space. This eventually led to the RSA forming an advisory committee to decide what to do with the plinth. Ultimately they backed the idea to use it as a rolling commission of public art.
© National Portrait Gallery, London
Cass Sculpture Foundation
Working with the Cass Sculpture Foundation they commissioned the first three public artworks for the space. The first sculpture to find a home there in 1999 was Mark Wallinger’s ‘Ecce Homo’. A further two sculptures were placed under this initial arrangement. These were ‘Regardless of History’ by Bill Woodrow in 2000 and ‘Monument’ by Rachel Whiteread in 2001.
Changes to the Square
Things slowed down for the Fourth Plinth following a series of changes to the square. Firstly the responsibility of the running of the square moved over to the Mayor of London’s office in 2000. Secondly the square itself was about to get a significant makeover. In particular the road at the north end of the square was pedestrianised with a bold terrace added. It would be a significant period of development which would transform access to the square.
Fourth Plinth Commissioning
In 2003 the Fourth Plinth Commissioning Group was established and led by Sandy Nairne of the National Portrait Gallery. The first piece to be placed back on the plinth was Marc Quinn’s ‘Alison Lapper Pregnant’. Since then a further 10 sculptures have been added to the plinth. Artists including David Shrigley and Anthony Gormley have taken part. Select examples include a ‘Ship in a Bottle, a ‘Blue Cockerel’ and a giant swirl of whipped cream.
Busts of the Northern Wall
Admiral John Jellicoe, 1st Earl Jellicoe
John Jellicoe was a naval commander possibly best known for his command of the Grand Fleet at the Battle of Jutland during World War I. A key battle of that conflict it was also the largest naval battle of the first world war. It was also the only time that the British and German fleets had actually fought in open combat. Fighting alongside Admiral Beatty the resultant victory established British dominance in the seas and secured vital shipping lanes.
NPG 2799 © National Portrait Gallery, London
Naval Commander
A career officer Jellicoe had previously served on many different warships before suffering a serious lung injury in China. Defying doctors who thought he wouldn’t make it he survived and went on to be promoted up the ranks. In 1910 he took command of the Atlantic Fleet and in 1912 became the Second Sea Lord. Taking command of the Great Fleet at the outbreak of World War I he led the ongoing fight against the German navy along with Admiral Beatty.
Battle of Jutland
After the Battle of Jutland in 1916 Jellicoe became the First Sea Lord. He oversaw an expansion of naval staff as well as the successful introduction of convoys to combat the threat from German U-Boats. Falling foul of the Prime Minister David Lloyd George he was controversially dismissed in 1917. In 1918 he was given a peerage and became Viscount Jellicoe of Scapa. He become the Governor General of New Zealand in 1920 and would serve in that role until 1924.
National Memorial
The bust in Trafalgar Square was the work of Sir Charles Wheeler. In 1935 Parliament had approved a national memorial to both Lord Jellicoe and Lord Beatty. This would include a bronze bust as well as a ceremonial fountain to replace the original existing fountains. Due to the outbreak of World War II however neither the bust nor fountains were unveiled until 1948. As a double monument consideration was also given to the placing of the fountains. As the senior officer it meant the Jellicoe fountain would be placed to the right of Nelson. The bust, along with that of Beatty, was placed directly north of the accompanying fountain. With the remodelling of the square in 2003 these, along with the bust of Admiral Cunningham, were moved to their present locations.
Admiral David Beatty, 1st Earl Beatty
David Beatty was very much a contemporary of John Jellicoe and both were considered together when decisions were made on their memorials. Beatty fought with Jellicoe at the Battle of Jutland and then took over from Jellicoe as the commander of the Royal Fleet in 1916. In that role he received the surrender of the German Fleet at the end of the war in 1918. Afterwards he followed in Jellicoe’s footsteps when he become the First Sea Lord from 1921 to 1927.
First World War
Beatty joined the Royal Navy in 1884. He became a Real Admiral at 38 and Churchill made him his Naval Secretary in 1911. At the outbreak of the First World War Beatty led a number of early naval engagements. In particular at the Battles of Heligoland Bank and the Dogger Bank. At the key Battle of Jutland his force became the vanguard with his ships taking a lot of sustained fire. Eventually he was able to meet with an oncoming fleet from Jellicoe and the German Fleet needed to retreat. Despite there being dis-satisfaction at the time with the result, it was nonetheless instrumental in establishing British superiority on the seas at that time.
Bust in Trafalgar Square
The bust of Admiral Beatty was created by the sculptor William McMillan and unveiled in 1948 by the Duke of Gloucester. It was part of a double memorial to himself and to Admiral Jellicoe that Parliament had sanctioned in 1935. In addition to the bronze on the northern wall the memorial also included a new fountain to replace the originals from 1845 ones and removed in 1939. Originally placed directly to the north of the accompanying fountain. When the square was remodelled in 2003 it was moved to its present location along with those of Jellicoe and Cunningham.
Admiral Andrew Browne Cunningham, 1st Viscount Cunningham
Andrew Browne Cunningham was the First Sea Lord and Chief of the Royal Navy from 1943 to his retirement in 1946. Prior to this he was Commander in Chief of the Mediterranean Fleet in World War II. A key focus of the fleet was to control the supply lines through the key points of Gibraltar and Alexandria. He also served during the First World War and commanded a destroyer during that period.
Bottle of Guinness
The bust of Cunningham was installed on Trafalgar Square on 2 April 1967 by the Duke of Edinburgh. It is the work of Czech born sculptor Franta Belsky and is the first sculpture in Trafalgar Square attributed to a foreign born artist. Supposedly placed inside is an empty bottle of Guinness with a note written by Belsky. The Guinness is said to have been drunk by the sculptor and the architect Eric Bedford.
National Gallery
George Washington
Above the main square on the green just in front of the National Gallery stands a statue of George Washington. It is the only statue of a foreign leader within the confines of Trafalgar Square. The piece itself is a replica and one of 25 such statues made for distribution around the world. The original statue on which it is based is housed in Richmond at the Virginia State Capitol. It was created by the French sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon.
Gift from the People of Virginia
The statue itself was presented as a gift to the British from the people of Virginia. It was unveiled in square on 30 June 1921. Draped in an American flag it was received for the nation by Lord Curzon, the foreign secretary at the time. It was a gift organised by the Sulgrave Institution a Virginia based organisation whose name they took from Washington’s ancestral home in Northamptonshire. They also presented a number of other memorials as part of their visit to be spread around the country.
President of the United States
George Washington was of course the first President of the United States. Despite never having been to Britain he was, at one point at least, a British citizen. Becoming a key military leader he would go on to play a major role in the War of Independence which resulted in the signing of the Treaty of Paris in 1783. Today he is known as a founding father and served as President from 1789 to 1797.
Never touching British Soil
There is a story that Washington had vowed to never set foot on British soil. In order to meet this request there is a story that says Virginian soil was brought over from America along with the statue. This was then laid at the base of the plinth so that it could be said that the statue itself never actually touches British soil.
The statues of Trafalgar Square were visited in April 2024. It forms part of a series of articles on monumental statues in London. Previous articles include the ‘Statues of Parliament Square‘ and ‘The Statues of Whitehall‘
